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    1. Member
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      01-26-2010 05:45 PM #26
      Nice. I love it when people love their cars but not all about show. Wrenching is fun. good work. Always nice to read stuff like this.


    2. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      01-26-2010 05:57 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by Chapel »
      are your Ronal Turbos Series 1 or Series 2?
      I assume Series 2 because of the pointy logos

      yes, series 2.
      Dave

    3. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-02-2010 05:26 PM #28
      When I bought the engine for the van (at a junkyard) all the accessories had been stored separately from the engine, and because of that, I was missing alot of the bolts. One of those missing was the alternator tension adjuster, which just used a long bolt threaded into a piece of metal, through which another bolt was passed at a perpendicular angle and bolted to the alternator ear. Tightening the long bolt tensioned the alternator. Because I was not running A/c or power steering pump, the alternator was the only thing being driven by the crank pulley, and as such I just got as much tension on the belt as I could (crowbar on the alternator) and just used a short bolt to directly bolt the alternator tab to the adjustment bracket. This worked fine, except that the belt did squeal on startup for a couple seconds. After 2 years it finally got around to actually annoying me, so while visiting another junkyard today, I remembered to find a subaru and grab the bolt (which of course was seized and quickly snapped) and adjustment block.
      To get the bolt out, I welded a nut on the end, heated the block and sprayed it with PB blaster.

      New long and short bolts and no more squeaking.


      Also, with the older cars I am not going to say it is all about function over form, but I will put a priority on getting something working and therefore being able to use it, before I make it look how I want it. This is pretty much how I built the car (with alot of mistakes and self-learning) over the first year or so. I would always make sure one component worked correctly before moving on to another, and laid out the order of work so that each area completely got me closer to driving the car. After all that, I started to clean things up and do cosmetics.
      Because of that, the engine bay in the rabbit isn't the cleanest thing. For some reason I left the ratty old original braided radiator overflow hose in there stretching across the whole engine bay. Today I replaced it with some new hose and ran it in front of the radiator to keep it out of the way. I also relocated the temp sensor for the rad fans from the front passenger side of the head to one of the lower bolts on the lower intake manifold. That way it and the wiring are out of the way. Replaced some of the (original!?) ratty braided vacuum tubing with new stuff and rerouted some of it as well. The car only uses three vac lines (one for the FPR, one for the cluster MFA (which I imagine is nowhere near accurate at this point) and one for the ECU MAP) so the vast majority of the ports are blocked off with a short piece of tubing and an appropriate sized screw/bolt.


      Also, there has been alot of discussion on the S5 (and really all audi/vw boards) about the FSI carbon buildup issue. The S5 has 10k miles on it, and all the talk about catch cans etc sparked my interest, so I looked at the PCV system today. It is very similar to the RS4 system (the problem is hitting alot of the RS4's) in that it utilizes a triple vortex oil separator (I do not know if it is the exact same unit). Unlike the RS4, which has hoses and vents going to both valve covers, the S5 only has a hose going to the driver side valve cover. The provision is there for one on the passenger side, but it is plugged. I would have to imagine that this alone would lead to less overall oil vapor entering the system.
      The separator bolts directly to the elbow between the throttle body and manifold. My inclination would be to put a catch can AFTER the factory separator. As the separator has a built in oil drain/return it would mean you would be losing less oil (drained from the catch can) and also mean that the catch can would fill less often as the separator would (theoretically) be taking care of the majority of the nasty stuff. That being said, because it bolts directly to the elbow, there is no easy way to add a catch can in this position. you could theoretically do it but it would require relocating the separator and having some custom fittings/adapters made up. That leaves putting the catch can BEFORE the separator, which from an install standpoint should not be a problem as a hose can be run in place of the stock hose (from the VC to the separator) going from the VC to the catch can inlet, and from the catch can outlet to the separator. I do not see any technical reason this would be an issue, but I do not know the intricacies of the factory separator (it relies alot on vacuum/pressure differentials).
      Dave

    4. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-08-2010 04:25 PM #29
      sold the chassis/strut braces from my 89 240 that I sold this spring (A6 replaced it). Got 100 bucks which was fine with me. Took them off before I sold the car because I knew the new owner was not remotely interested in them. I originally put them on the car because it had close to 300k miles on it and I hoped they may help to keep it together to see 300k. Unfortunately, I sold it with 292k, I just needed something a little more modern that other people could drive without issues and was a bit more comfortable for long trips. I was happy that it was sold to someone who knew volvos, knew that the car still had alot of life in it, and was very happy to get it for 900$ (I paid 300$ for it in 2005).
      Dave

    5. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-11-2010 05:50 PM #30
      So the van has rust. Seam rust, rocker panel rust, floorpan rust, drivetrain rust. Pretty much rust everywhere. I do not pretend to be a body work expert, and to me, it is a functional vehicle, so my focus on dealing with the rust is to deal with problem areas as they start to threaten to functionality of the vehicle and do it in a way that stops future issues (in that area) while spending a minimal amount of effort. I know that I will never be able to fix it all, and as long as I can keep the van on the road and functional I am happy. What this means is that the repairs, and the van, are not always pretty.
      All the fixed windows except the one of the sliding door have rust bubbles under the seals at some point. They've been there for awhile, and I have not paid much attention to them, but some are starting to get bigger, and I thought it was time to do something before I started losing entire panels and/or seams. The sliding window on the drivers side was the worst, with a nasty bubble on one of the vertical sections.

      To pull the window, you have to pull a piece of plastic trim out of the seal that at 20 years old, tends to break pretty easily. After getting the locking trim out, start from the inside and push the seal over the sheet metal lip and work your way around until you can get the window out. What I found was pretty much what I expected. The rust bubbles on the bottom seem to be located at the pinch welds. The small depressions probably collected water and led to rust over time. I have no idea what caused the bubbles up the side though.

      After grinding and a wire wheel, everything was solid except for the big bubble up the side, and a small hole along the bottom that could just be welded shut.

      Used a dremel cut off wheel to open up the big hole to good metal and a consistent shape.

      Cover of a stratmosphere catalog served as template material and was transferred to metal.

      welded up

      and at this point, I realized I had no more rust bullet (my por-15 type coating of choice) and could not proceed until I ordered more. I like the epoxy based stuff because it is thick enough to fill minor imperfections which means I don't have to use filler. This area will be under the seal so it doesn't have to be perfect, plus I don't like using filler if I don't have to because it means one less thing for water to get into and cause future issues. The rust bullet will also seal up any remaining pinch welds that rust developing in them (and level them out). So I just threw on a quick coat of self etching primer so it won't rust while I am waiting for the rust bullet, I'll sand it off before I recoat it.

      Dave

    6. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 10:17 PM #31
      rust bullet is a week and a half away, so I progressed with the other windows. Only a couple trouble spots on each of the fixed rear windows. Driver side-

      The patch went over the corner though, so i did use a little filler here to keep the contour (in primer).

      and the other side was much the same, although I was happy enough with the welding that I did not use any filler

      And at that point, I did something I often do, and took it a step further then originally planned. I had only intended to do the windows, but I started pulling interior panels to see the extent of some of my seam rust, and it led to pulling the rear bench, and so on and so forth. At this point, looks like the van will be off the road for a couple weeks as I (hopefully) deal with some more of these issues permanently. I don't want to put a whole lot of money in the body work, as it is not a primary vehicle and it's staying together ok. Panel replacements are pretty much out of the question, as is a paint job, so I will be trying to work with what I've got.
      Driver side rear, I have been "tending" to this with rustbullet for a few years, but it's a losing battle because I have not done anything to the other side. To be effective any epoxy rust coating must fully encapsulate the rust. This is what makes it such a pain in the ass with automotive rust, to get to the other side.

      and the other side

      Passenger side rear, some problems, but much better shape

      and why it's that much better (inside)

      I had bypassed the rear heater earlier this fall as it didn't do much, added complexity to the already complex cooling system, and just made the not-very-effective front heater even less effective. With the rear bench out I pulled the core/blower and remaining hoses. Some work here and it will provide some more underseat storage. (and yes that is my subaru harness/ecu hanging out there, never wrapped it for easy troubleshooting if necessary).
      Dave

    7. Member Rub-ISH's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 10:24 PM #32
      In for all kinds of awesome
      Quote Originally Posted by Hunter S Thompson
      I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
      My IMDb resume...Sounds I've recorded

    8. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-14-2010 11:08 PM #33
      this getting bigger and bigger. Said to myself this weekend, if I'm doing the seam rust in the rear why not look at the floor panels upfront. I know there is at least one windshield leak up there so I figured they probably needed some attention. I left my camera with the car, but after pulling the carpet out they were actually in decent shape. Only one or two small soft areas that needed patched on each side as well as the 6 holes (for the step pad) in each footwell. I patched the footwell holes because I am planning on getting rid of the foot pads altogether and going with bedliner.
      I removed the factory sound deadening mat on the driver side with a screwdriver wielded like a chisel and a hammer, realizing afterwards it was a perfect opportunity to use the new air impact hammer and chisel set I got for christmas I have not used it yet but I am hoping I can find something to (remember to) use it on soon.
      I will leave you with this shot from earlier this fall. With the new B8 platform Audi now uses the bigger 66mm hubbores which means the S5 wheels will fit...... the van




      Modified by rs4-380 at 11:36 PM 2-14-2010
      Dave

    9. 02-14-2010 11:22 PM #34
      That Audi S5 is absolutely exquisite!

    10. Member
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      02-14-2010 11:49 PM #35
      Just a comment on your "cabriolets did not exist in 1980".
      My previous car was a 1979 Golf Cabriolet, #00023 and produced in 1978...



      And STUNNING Audi!



      Modified by IaMsUpErMaN at 9:39 PM 2-14-2010

    11. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-15-2010 12:06 AM #36
      Quote, originally posted by IaMsUpErMaN »
      Just a comment on your "cabriolets did not exist in 1980".

      yup, should have clarified "in the us"
      Dave

    12. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-16-2010 08:15 PM #37
      driver side before I removed the sound deadening and did any welding


      passenger side. The rust stains are pretty superficial.

      and this is a shot through the driver side turn signal into the corner of the driver side footwell. The seam here has been compromised, not sure what I am going to do, but it's totally hidden, so it won't be that involved.

      Hoping to start getting some stuff back together tomorrow (or at least coated) as summit racing was able to get me rust bullet from Ohio in only 2 days while rustbullet is taking a week and a half from Reno.
      Dave

    13. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-18-2010 10:47 AM #38
      did an oil change, air filter, and plugs on a first gen focus SPI yesterday. Nothing out of the ordinary, except that they use press fit ROUND nuts on the airbox, which of course means that the screws seize to the nut, and the nut doesn't have enough friction between it and the plastic housing to keep it from spinning. Airbox had to come out and vise grips used to get to the filter.
      There were several other issues I saw with the car, but the owner was in "just keep it running mode" so I left it at that. I do think I convinced them to come back for a timing and serpentine belt.


      and a big FFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU to ups who tried to deliver my rustbullet to an address in kentucky. Now wont see the summit order until next week, so the van sits.
      Dave

    14. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-19-2010 04:59 PM #39
      Oil change on a very dirty 2.0 MKIV

      The bad spot in the floorboard seam (the shot behind the turn signal) cut out and batched up. Didn't bother recreating the flanges and seam, also not going to bother even grinding down the welds as this will all be covered up.
      Dave

    15. Member Der Audidude's Avatar
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      02-19-2010 05:17 PM #40
      Oh yeah, I forgot I hate you.
      Well done!
      History: 1988 Audi 90 Quattro - 1990 Nissan 300ZX - 1999 Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Anniv. Edition - 2001 VW GTI VR6

    16. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-20-2010 05:33 PM #41
      The a6 certainly has it's share of bumps an bruises from it's previous life in socal and massachusetts, but that doesn't mean I'm not trying to do little things to make it a little more "together".
      The rear valance had some areas where it was peeling, which is weird because I wasn't aware they even painted them (maybe it had been painted before) and it kept bugging me. Today I decided to pull it off, but quickly found out that it would take pulling the whole rear bumper, so I popped off the ends enough that I could mask it off. I forgot to take a picture of the before, but here it is scuffed up (you can kind of see the discoloring that was there along the bottom).

      Couple coats of krylon fusion and I'm happy. There was some orange peeling going on, but the plastic is textured anyway, so it won't bug me as long as it sticks.

      It also got an ebay sourced center cap to take care of the missing one when I bought it.
      While I had the paint, I scuffed up and painted the chrome window trim for the van, that was no longer chrome and very brittle. Figure this will look better then the faded plastic that they were, plus add a little more life with the uv protection. Most people would say just get new seals that don't need the trim retainers, but I'm not into spending that kind of money on this, and the seals are still in ok shape.
      Dave

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      02-21-2010 05:39 PM #42
      Van-
      took a wire wheel to the lower seams, rockers and wheel arches today in anticipation of getting them cleaned up. Only did the rusty spots but there were plenty of them, and as I expected, I did open some holes. To do this right would require patch panels, and I'm not really inclined to put that kind of money into the van, so I am going to try and preserve (and protect) what's there and probably just fill any holes that aren't structural and are not into the body.
      Didn't have my camera but behind the rear wheel wells are the worst spots. I think the passenger side is most likely going to need some serious work, but I'm trying to ignore that for now.
      Dave

    18. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-22-2010 06:35 PM #43
      Van--
      Uhh. So I am having some trouble following my own mantra here. The van has some serious rust issues all around, although many of them are hiding. It's one of those things were you don't want to dig to far because you know it's not going to be pretty, and it will just keep going. I am having trouble containing the wire wheel and grinder. I've decided I am going to do the bottom 1/4 in bedliner, since it covers a multitude of sins, and should keep it pretty dry. I obviously don't want to just cover rust, since it will continue to spread, but in some cases, that was probably the best thing to do, because once you start cutting/grinding, the whole panel is coming out. Case in point the driver side rear corner. It was pretty much shot, but it really serves no function, so I should have just left it and coated it, but I started cutting, and ran away with it, and now the whole corner is gone.

      Problem is the panel above it and the rear pan are not solid at the seams, and the perpendicular section of that panel (going in to the engine area) is totally shot. That means I really don't have anything to weld a new corner to without digging even further which means replacing all kinds of other things. I've stopped myself and am taking some time to re-evaluate at this point.
      Here is the rear corner on the passenger side, which is actually in worse condition (the fender arch here is gone at the bottom as well) but I'm leaving this until I decide what I want to do.

      Driver side with everything ground out.

      Passenger side ground out (you can see how much better it is because of the lack of leaks and rust inside that is reflected in the earlier pictures).

      I got the first coat of rust bullet on everything this evening, two more patches in the rockers I need to do tomorrow, then hopefully the 2nd coat of rust bullet where it needs it before the weather gets bad. I am doing stuff outside because it creates a mess and the S5 is not covered in the barn. I would hit myself hard if I got did anything to it or got anything on it accidently, so I am pushing the van out everyday to work on it. The forecast calls for some form of precipitation all this week, so we'll see how much I can get done before all that hits.
      Dave

    19. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-24-2010 06:20 PM #44
      still making progress on the van, but keep forgetting to bring the camera back.
      I made a big hole in the rocker under the passenger side b-pillar that took about half dozen different pieces to patch, and got the last hole on the driver side patched as well. Both sides are ready for bedliner (I am holding back on the rear corners for now). Front floor panels are all patched and need one more coat of Rust Bullet before bedlining. The window frames are painted (via a paintscratch spray can) and I've got some work to do to try and blend it with the old, although considering the state of the old paint, I am not sure I will ever succeed.
      Dave

    20. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      02-25-2010 08:57 PM #45
      Van-
      whew. Lots of painting with various substances today. Lots if pictures to catch up on to.
      The little screen I erected so I could work inside without doing something tragic to the S5.

      Small area (opened up) that needs metal under the drivers side c pillar.

      And a much bigger crusty area in the passenger side rocker under the passenger side b pillar that I cut away. This one actually wrapped around the rocker and went forward to the wheel wheel. I had to rebuild the whole thing including the pinch rail using about half a dozen pieces of 16ga.

      Area above the driver side rear wheel well that will not be covered with bedliner and this needed paint (in primer)

      Meanwhile the window frames are coming along nicely with some color on them.

      Floor boards in rust bullet

      Floor Boards in bedliner. I am not being particular with it's application as the old carpet is going back down over it.

      and both sides have bedliner from the c-pillars forward.

      can see the area here that needed paint,. Still needs some wetsanding and another coat or two. I didn't use filler because I don't care as long as it doesn't rust.


      Still need to get the front bumper off and wrap around the front, go back over the rear fenders and figure out what I am doing with the rear corners and deal with them. Also have to put down rust bullet inside the rear fenders. I think the front setabelt attachment points need some work too (now that I am "in there") I am taking a little trip the next couple of days so it will have to wait however.

      Hoping to get the S5 out "early" this year. I usually take the stored cars out around the end of March, but considering there is no snow on the ground, I am hoping the roads will be cleared of crap and the frost heaves settle down earlier.
      Dave

    21. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      03-01-2010 07:45 PM #46
      Took the a6 on a 700mile jaunt to the Adirondacks this weekend. Ran great, got us through some nasty weather, and was very comfortable for two 6 hour stints.
      Weather was drier today, but still too windy to get the van out for a better view. I dug into the front today, cleaned out the seam behind the impact bumper and got it coated. There was a hole on the passenger side corner underneath the bumper endcap, but the panel is open in the back, and it will be covered, so I didn't worry about it other then stopping it from getting bigger. You can also see the stud that I welded to the grille tab that holds the bracket for my upper lights. This and the support of the grille is all the holds them to the car.

      Got the inner wheel wells in the rear coated (this was the bad side (driver))


      and pulled the panel further forward. This is actually in pretty good shape under here, shouldn't need to do much.
      Dave

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      03-04-2010 11:08 PM #47
      Van
      Figured "since I was doing it" to try and do something with the seam rust. For those of you who are not familiar, Vanagons were built with multiple exterior panels, the panels are flanged at 90 degree angles then pinch welded on the inside. This leaves open seams in the exterior, which are filled with some sort of caulk, and then painted over. Over time, the caulk loses it's elasticity, cracks, lets water in, and then the seams start to rust. It's a huge PIA and responsible for alot of the work I have already done.
      The seams on the driver side at the b pillar and c pillar were the worst. For now I am not touching the d pillar driver side seam. My process involves cutting/scraping out the old caulk with a utility knife, grinding any rust that has escaped the seams, then coating with rust bullet, seam sealer, and then paint.
      this is one of the seams after the old stuff was removed.

      I am also looking for a set of summer wheels for the avant. Something 17" and OEM, nothing very special.


      Modified by rs4-380 at 11:09 PM 3-4-2010
      Dave

    23. Member kylesprague's Avatar
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      03-04-2010 11:11 PM #48
      yum. love the cabby and the audi [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Quote Originally Posted by beatrixkiddo View Post
      hey, you're that guy from Travy's sig. i knew i recognized that name from somewhere

    24. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
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      03-05-2010 07:16 PM #49
      van-
      Well I've finished what I started out to do. The windows are back in. I reused the old seals primarily because I did not want to shell out for new ones. They went in relatively easily, but getting the retaining trim (the stuff I painted black) back in was an absolute PIA. It took a good hour per window, and my fingers and hands are shot right now. The trim turned out very nice, and I will eventually have to do the sliding door window. That window had no rust so I didn't remove it originally.

      Things are starting to come back together, you can see here how the bedlining will work. Two things I noticed - the van, which I always thought was a metallic beige until I had to find paint for it and discovered it is actually a metallic silver, actually looks silver now with the contrasting black. It also looks higher (lifted) in the right light because the bedliner on the arches makes the wheel gap appear bigger.


      Still have to finish the seams, the bad spot under the driver door, deal with the rear corners and finish the bedliner back there.
      Dave

    25. 03-05-2010 07:20 PM #50
      last time i did bodywork my garage smelled like paint for weeks. but i saved 1800$
      check your gaskets folks. they collect water

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