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    1. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      10-25-2011 11:59 PM #176
      Nothing at all has happened. Life put this on the far back burner.. Its sad but true.

      However Christmas is rolling around and extra hours open up at work, thus meaning extra money to spend on stupid things such as cars. LOL

      I think I have made up my mind... M-TDI w/cable clutched, cable shifted 02A. Turbo/injector upgrades in the future. For now I will need to purchase the bits to make the cable clutch work.. and some 16v axles.. and make myself a mechanical tdi pump, preferably from a 2.5 4cyl land-rover unit.

      If anyone has seen som FS threads in their travels I need some mk1 16v axles and mk1 02a mounts.. It'd be greatly appreciated

      I hope to gather parts over winter, and do this as soon as it gets warm next spring I'll daily my '67 Mercury when the Jetta goes under the knife

    2. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      12-06-2011 09:42 PM #177
      Hello vee-dub-ular people.

      Life has yet taken another **** on me, laid off from work.. but, I have been able to claim EI. So I will have some time on my hands .

      I have a good line on new mk1 100mm EMPI axles here in Canada, $95 a piece.

      I think I will order these mounts; http://www.ebay.de/itm/Seilzug-Getri...ht_4266wt_1185

      Does anyone have any leads on full kits to make the 02A cable clutched??

    3. 12-06-2011 09:51 PM #178
      Most of the cable clutch parts are NLA new i believe.

    4. Member vdubjim's Avatar
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      12-06-2011 10:05 PM #179
      Dude on vortex sells those, alittle cheaper after shipping and $$ conversion.
      nothing-leaves-stock
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    5. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      12-06-2011 10:09 PM #180
      Quote Originally Posted by vdubjim View Post
      Dude on vortex sells those, alittle cheaper after shipping and $$ conversion.
      nothing-leaves-stock
      Which? the cables? or the mounts? Hardly cheaper. $299 + shipping + border fees. $121 + $24 shipping from Deutschland. It would take like $50 from NLS to get them in to Canada i would think.

      Has anyone seen any cable clutch bits up for sale lately?

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      12-07-2011 09:30 AM #181
      i have the mounts IN STOCK and i have one extra actuator brand new in stock.
      then i here a mid 80's CRX cabe fits with minor mods.(i don't have one)
      PM me if interested

      thanks-josh
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      Email us at sales@nothingleavesstock.com 5780 Main St. Center Valley PA 18034 610 282 5487

    7. 12-07-2011 11:17 AM #182
      Quote Originally Posted by 8v-of-fury View Post

      I think I will order these mounts; http://www.ebay.de/itm/Seilzug-Getri...ht_4266wt_1185
      I purchased these mounts a few months back. Had an issue with fitment of the rear trans mount right off the bat. Emailed them probably a month or so later to mention the issue and they had a replacement sent out the next day without any questions.

      Haven't had a chance to run the car with them yet, but I'd buy from them again.

    8. Member vdubjim's Avatar
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      12-07-2011 06:09 PM #183
      must be the canada thing the border fees?

      120 usd after conversion, then im sure 40-60 eur shipping, euro conversion on that, So figure 200 + border fee, plus they are not a local guy to deal with when somethings wrong.
      ALL PARTS ARE PLUS SHIPPING!!!!!!!!
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    9. 12-07-2011 06:31 PM #184
      Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
      I purchased these mounts a few months back. Had an issue with fitment of the rear trans mount right off the bat. Emailed them probably a month or so later to mention the issue and they had a replacement sent out the next day without any questions.

      Haven't had a chance to run the car with them yet, but I'd buy from them again.
      Quote Originally Posted by vdubjim View Post
      must be the canada thing the border fees?

      120 usd after conversion, then im sure 40-60 eur shipping, euro conversion on that, So figure 200 + border fee, plus they are not a local guy to deal with when somethings wrong.
      All said and done they were under $150 CDN shipped into Canada. Shipping was 18 euro as quoted on the ebay page.

      As mentioned in the quote above I had an issue with the rear transmission mount immediately when I tried mounting it onto a freshly painted trans. The holes weren't aligning correctly and the mount was binding when trying to tighten it down flush against the case.

      Messaged the seller around a month after purchase to let them know (using freetranslation to relay the message) and they had a new mount in the mail the next day with tracking via DHL, no questions asked.

      Like I said, I'd deal with them all over again if I ever need to.

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      12-07-2011 11:45 PM #185
      this is just a tease anyways... common prove me wrong.. i wanna see you do that...

    11. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      01-13-2012 09:41 PM #186
      Quote Originally Posted by crsmp5 View Post
      this is just a tease anyways... common prove me wrong.. i wanna see you do that...
      1 month and a little progress I have acquired over my few years as a dubber a few old diesel fuel pumps. Which I have torn down to the bare pump, cleaned, re-sealed, and sold them. Made a pretty penny on each that i got for next to nothing or on a trade for something i got for free. So 100% profit

      Either way, with my now confident knowledge of dismantling pumps, I am starting to tackle building my m-tdi pump. It will be (to start with) a 1.6 TD pump off of an MF engine, and the innards will be replaced by most of the inner parts from the tdi pump I have. The pump will bolt the AHU block by that of the stock 1.6 diesel mount. I will use the 1.6 timing advance, governor setup, throttle setup and boost enrichment. It will be a barebones base line pump but it will have no issues producing the same 90hp/150tq that the TDI had when it was stock. I will be keeping the intercooler, upping the boost and fuel.. so i see 175 wheel torque as a non issue.

      With the money I know have sitting in my paypal from the diesel pumps, I am starting to order necessary pieces Will be needing a clutch kit to mate it to my 020 transmission, and an 80% peloquin kit as well to keep power at both wheels. No more 1 tire fryer Among these parts I will also need a new waterpump.. I guess after 400,000km the shaft bearing gets a little play! lol.

      Sorry to dissapoint the masses but it is no longer an 02A swap lol. Just the TDI swap.. which is now going to be M-TDI!

    12. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      01-18-2012 09:49 PM #187
      New parts are here!

      210mm clutch kit -$140



      Cast impeller Bosch Waterpump -$25



      Some trans seals -$10






      Going back to the spin on filter -$8



      New motor mount -$8



      I've also started the tear down of the TDI pump. Everything is the same inside, except for the throttle which is an interesting setup. Anyway it looks like everything will swap over very easily in to my 1.6 pump with no issue. I should be able to get that all done up and everything the day i pull my motor.. Hmm better yet, I think I will pull the pump off my motor a few days prior to the scheduled motor pulling and get the pump all built up and back on the TDI and running pre-swap.

    13. Member boardsnow6's Avatar
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      01-19-2012 01:58 PM #188
      Quote Originally Posted by ‎2tnicrbbt View Post
      the driving gloves blew me away. low is a lifestyle, only if your a midget and drive a low car.

    14. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      02-16-2012 09:34 PM #189
      Her is a good question guys, I will be needing to setup the waste gate for manual operation and not to be told by the computer (that doesn't exist anymore).

      The stock k03 turbo conveniently has two braided lines coming up from the turbo to make my life easy but I am new to turbochargers, and don't wanna screw it up eh lol.

      So the two lines on the turbo are as follows. Seems one line comes directly from the cold side compressor housing, and the other comes from what i believe to be the waste gate. They both went to a controller and a third line went from there directly to the ECU on the AHU.. I have purchased a well known suppliers Manual Boost Controller;

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/250357884444...ht_3756wt_1185

      There diagrams tell me it would be best to take my boost supply directly from the turbo housing to resist spiking. So it will go from there to the pumps LDA and from there.. it makes sense to be teed to the waste gate after the MBC. The pump will see the actual psi the turbo produces, and the waste gate will see whatever I tell it with the MBC correct.

    15. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      02-21-2012 10:14 PM #190
      Well she starts up and runs great even around 0c with no glow whatsoever.. So I must be somewhat close to a good setting. I don't hear any of the old diesel clatter that I did with the IDI either..

      Pre M-TDI;



      Post M-TDI;



      Only picture I have from the actual swap.. there is a reason I got it done in 6 hours ok people! lol. I didn't frig around. ;D



      Pretty much 96% finished in this next shot. Just to tidy the wiring up that was a mess from before anyway, add the manual boost controller, and get a boost gauge and SHES GOLDEN! Air filter will be getting a thin aluminum surround fabricated, to allow it to draw its air from down under the washer bottle. and not get road gunk from the belt on it.

      ps. You know you love the ABS piping inter-cooler delete It works ok, and it cost me like $4.. This is an extreme budget build.




      400 Liters of free fuel and I got the drums for free too. Paid $100 total with shipping for this air powered drum pump, something like 20 Liters per minute? it flows real quick through the nearly 1" outlet. This is my introduction to WMO .



      Video of it purring away Love the turbo at idle .

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeLP_...z5hOZJZJrP3ZuS

    16. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      02-22-2012 06:55 PM #191
      This is how I have my boost lines setup right now.. I think they're right?

      Red is from the turbo housing, blue is to the waste gate. Correct or not?? So this should effectively now make the k03 waste gate open at whatever its stock setting is right.

      When my boost gauge arrives, and i find the damn MBC i bought i'll be able to see whats going on.


    17. Moderator just-jean's Avatar
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      03-01-2012 06:09 AM #192
      hope your thread finds a new home in the TDI forum
      07 EOS island grey/black/2.0T-- 6MT----no DSG for MY happy feet

    18. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 01:21 AM #193
      I have not updated this thread in forever amount of time!

      Page 16-22 of my Vwdiesel.net thread. Way easier than rewriting all of the informationz.

      I have since last updating here been through a few pump revisions. Custom hand built M-TDI pump out of a 1.9 AAZ 17mm case, with all of the AHU 10mm internals including the distributor head, and a 1.6TD lid and custom boost pin.

      Dirtyass aaz pump;



      1.9 TDI AHU internals;




      Custom built internal throttle lever;




      And the pump clearancing needed to run it;







      Then came the candy coating ;






      As a result of too much governor shimming (not the throttle the spinning governor weights) I had my pumps cam plate smashing against the governor assembly four times every cycle.. which sent metal through the pump;





      BUT I only even found this out because I found this on my way home one day, which left me stranded..;





      Got it all sorted out only to find out the metal pieces that my pump ate have taken out my pumps ability to produce proper internal pressures required for proper combustion.. 17psi fuel pressure at idle, when it should be 47-50psi. With this fuel pressure gauge I made. This was also running on thicker than diesel fuel, pure 2 stroke motor oil;




      But heyy that is alright! SAY HELLO TO M-TDI v3.0 Not my video, but a Land Rover pump on a 1Z/AHU;





      This is currently where I am at. I also have a set of .216 Veg Injection nozzles to go in, which are actually more like a .238 nozzle over the stock .184's . I have a T3 that may make its way on there at a later date, and I also have a CTN 02A TDI trans that needs to get inside my mk1 as well .

      All in good time, after all. Up until the purchase of the injectors and LR discovery injection pump.. I had made profit to do this M-TDI swap . Suck on that.

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      08-14-2012 08:01 AM #194
      I realize that's not your video, but is that your pump? I recently pucked up a Rover pump.

      Are you going the ALH hub and pulley approach? From what I understand, machining the pulley is onlly required if you're running the upper timing cover.

      -Todd

    20. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 08:55 PM #195
      Quote Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
      I realize that's not your video, but is that your pump? I recently pucked up a Rover pump.

      Are you going the ALH hub and pulley approach? From what I understand, machining the pulley is onlly required if you're running the upper timing cover.

      -Todd
      I have actually chosen a not so traveled path, The 20mm Rover shaft with the hub removed has a key way that will allow use of my stock 20mm AHU pulley. This will make the offset perfect, from there I need to enlarge the hole in the mount for the snout of the pump. Needed done regardless unless you picked up a later 1.9 AAZ bracket that utilizes the twisting pulley as well. I have chosen to stick with the twisting pump style setup as opposed to the twisting pulley. I will either elongate the pumps holes to match the old style, or elongate the brackets holes.

      Probably the pumps, being that its soft aluminum over the thick steel of the bracket. Ooh, that just made an idea spark in my head. What if I had the snout machined to fit the smaller hub spot.. would mean less downtime for the car too lol.

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      08-14-2012 09:39 PM #196
      Quote Originally Posted by 8v-of-fury View Post
      I have actually chosen a not so traveled path, The 20mm Rover shaft with the hub removed has a key way that will allow use of my stock 20mm AHU pulley. This will make the offset perfect

      What if I had the snout machined to fit the smaller hub spot.. would mean less downtime for the car too lol.

      Interesting.... that sounds too easy. Although I like the idea of turning the pulley to set timing, the AHU pulley should be much easier to find. Is the Rover keyway indexed properly for the AHU pulley?

      Don't people say the mainshaft can snap due to the higher TDI spring tension? Personally, I'd leave the mainshaft alone.

      How much louder was your M-TDI compared to a standard E-TDI?

      -Todd

    22. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 10:16 PM #197
      Quote Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
      Interesting.... that sounds too easy. Although I like the idea of turning the pulley to set timing, the AHU pulley should be much easier to find. Is the Rover keyway indexed properly for the AHU pulley?

      Don't people say the mainshaft can snap due to the higher TDI spring tension? Personally, I'd leave the mainshaft alone.

      How much louder was your M-TDI compared to a standard E-TDI?

      -Todd
      The rover key way is indexed slightly over, from the AHU's key way. Don't necessarily have to use a pump lock anyway.

      I didn't mean machine the main shaft, the snout of the pump where it fits in the bracket. It is the smaller 17mm shafts that can't handle the higher twisting and pushing force required to move the 12mm head.

      Well, my current Gold pump is acting weird and may have been the entire time.. as I had to time it to 2.10mm to get it to run right.. And right now I still have it timed up near 1.6-75mm So I cannot say as it is not necessarily combusting all to well without the proper advance curve. Also I am running just a down pipe for my exhaust, and the E-TDI was a full exhaust with cat and resonator.

      It is slightly louder than my brothers 1.9AAZ, just a down pipe as well, and a k03 turbo the same. But I attest that to the advance being all off with my internal pressures being off the charts.

    23. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-16-2012 12:36 AM #198
      So the CandiPump has met its maker. She is really running rough, lots of cold start smoke, and pitiful performance. Pump is getting a full tear down tomorrow morning, and I will be building another M-TDI pump to get me by until my Rover pump gets here in the next few weeks. Yup N/A pump with a 10mm head and DI internals Who needs an LDA!?








      Oil pressures fantastic though! Cold idle first, Hot idle second. 0w40 full synthetic. Taken from the head.






      LOVE the HD capabilities of my phone!



    24. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      01-03-2013 11:25 AM #199









    25. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      01-06-2014 12:48 AM #200
      1 year to the day almost.. SLACKER. PICTURES !

      Got a 2.25: exhaust made up last May.



      Redid my nozzles, which needed them IMMENSELY. .216" Veg Injection nozzles on stock OE bodies.




      Got rid of the stock oil cooler, as well as the EGR. New rad, bottle.. hoses, and other misc stuff. General bay clean-up.






      H&R Springs and KONI STR.T's





      New brakes up front. Calipers, lines, rotors and pads.





      FIRST YEAR WITH SNOW TIRES! Whoa she is unstoppable..





      Put some mkiv automatic tdi starters on my 84 M-tdi, my brothers 84 AAZ and my gf's 1.6TD (these are 020 compatible.).. they rock. Notice there is no "shaft" therefore no bushing i nthe trans to worry about..









      Had the car up in the air today, noticed I have a crack in my rear frame rail..






    26. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      01-21-2014 01:47 AM #201
      Pulled my dash out to do a heater core and blower motor replacement. Also I started to tidy up all the aftermarket circuits I have made up myself as I have gone.. lol Manual glow plug relay, manual rad fan relay, stereo power and ground directly to battery, gauges and their lighting, an extra 12v source. Basically I just ran them wherever when I put them in, so I am fixing that right now lol. The worst is the stereo speaker wiring.. not done by me. The PO I guess added his own wiring to all four speakers, and they are JUST long enough to hook the stereo up when it is out of the dash. They need extending! Charges at 15v with absolutely nothing hooked up and a cold start.. haha





      I broke the damned stud off in the body today for the rear trans mount.. Luckily it was the softest steel bolt of all time and I had absolutely no issue drilling it out lol. I put a good strong grade through bolt in, we'll see if she holds up. Also luckily it was the front one which was in that body lip.. I dunno what I would have done to fix the rear one had it of stripped off.




      I bought a few Cabriolet clusters to convert their tachs to be diesel for both my brothers and my 1.9 diesel mk1's. It is not as easy as you'd think. lol Had to wrap your brain around it when you haven't touched this type of electrical in 10 years.



    27. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      01-22-2014 03:15 AM #202
      Looka dees funky things inside my new heater core from Valeo, I heard some **** rattling around in it so I had to pop an end cap off and have a look see




      Normally the drivers side of the heater core flops around and is NOT sealed to the cabin from the cold air being forced down upon the top of it.. Well it is now Taped the seam the whole way round the box as well, SEALED. I also did the piece that connects the dash to the heater box for the defrost.





      I installed a new cabin fan as well, but small differences in how it fit the heater box to my original.. I had to use silicone to properly seal around its perimeter. It did not come with a rubber seal (why the hell wouldn't it?) so I made do. Probably better anyway, the silicone won't break down over time like the rubber did. I also siliconed the heater box back up to the raintray so it too is sealed water tight. While I had the coolant drained I installed a Stant 90c (195f) thermostat to replace the 70c (160f) one I had in there. This along with my front air blocker, should keep cabin temps way up. Next up is pulling all of the door cards and re doing the vapor barrier there, as I get some nasty drafts through the inner door handle..

      I have a window seal to do (next week, need the car this weekend), axle flanges (brand new) and seals, and a turbo drain gasket. Should be good to go then until like February before something else goes awry.. lol

    28. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      02-11-2014 02:02 AM #203
      You'll never guess what makes a diesel angry on cold start?? 3 1/2 dead glow plugs! 3 were right done, and the 4th would warm up but not glow red at all no matter how long you gave it 12v. How in the hell was it starting down to -22c?!? 415psi that is how.. lol Checked compression for the first time ever of my ownership of this engine (4 years), and damn. Not bad for 500k+ kms..

      I replaced them all with 4 good known used ones that I took from a customers car because he insisted on replacing his as a maintenance item. Don't blame him. Plus hey, I got a free set of plugs! haha.

      Put in new axle cup flanges as my old ones had bad grooves and were leaking gear oil pretty badly.. so I had a chance to check out my peloquin %80 kit, it has no hit marks on the bolt head which some said it would.. I ground the two axle snubs down about 1/16th so I guess it worked. I am at stock ride height as well.





      4" exhaust to 6" tip anyone??




      This thing is going ot be getting some love hopefully in the next little bit..


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      02-11-2014 10:54 PM #204
      Well well well!

      Wouldn't you know it, starts much better with 4 functioning glow plugs! It was -15C today and it didn't even hesitate and there was much less smoke on cold start up.

      The only thing I notice is the idle will not hold high when cold, or when a heavy alternator load is present.. like after glow off the plugs.

      Likely this is a setting issue, but being a Land Rover pump its a beast that has no written way lol..

      Any advice? I have been wracking my brain.

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      02-17-2014 07:04 PM #205
      Looks like those Canadian winters have left behind a little rust!
      Question. Do you have any pictures of the Auber Instruments EGT and BOOST gauges installed?

      Getting the cabby tach to work for diesel took some effort for me when I did it. Although I had very little idea how the electronics worked, I found some info deep down in a thread.

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      02-18-2014 12:37 AM #206
      Quote Originally Posted by flying_oliver View Post
      Looks like those Canadian winters have left behind a little rust!
      Question. Do you have any pictures of the Auber Instruments EGT and BOOST gauges installed?

      Getting the cabby tach to work for diesel took some effort for me when I did it. Although I had very little idea how the electronics worked, I found some info deep down in a thread.
      I still have the dash out of the car, so no pictures of the install. I plan to run them where my ashtray was, above one another. As well as install an aftermarket 12v plug there.. the Mk1 cig lighter doesn't hold modern 12v stuff worth a crap. I am thinking on of those combo ones, a 12v plug and USB power above it.

      She has been a daily driven Ontario car since brand new in 1984. Not bad for 30 winters on the road of Ontario.. trust me.. there are Mk6's here with the same amount of rust.

      Don't suppose you could shed any light on the tach issue? I never gave it much thought to figure out..

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      02-18-2014 02:11 AM #207
      Quote Originally Posted by 8v-of-fury View Post
      I still have the dash out of the car, so no pictures of the install. I plan to run them where my ashtray was, above one another. As well as install an aftermarket 12v plug there.. the Mk1 cig lighter doesn't hold modern 12v stuff worth a crap. I am thinking on of those combo ones, a 12v plug and USB power above it.

      She has been a daily driven Ontario car since brand new in 1984. Not bad for 30 winters on the road of Ontario.. trust me.. there are Mk6's here with the same amount of rust.

      Don't suppose you could shed any light on the tach issue? I never gave it much thought to figure out..
      Ah ok. When you do get them installed I'm assuming you will post pics.

      Oh dang. That is nothing then. You plan to ever blast it off or something? JW.

      Time to go dig up some threads. Lets see here.... the first link leads to the second, but I will post them individually. It takes a while to read it all but it is a good read and hopefully you will find your version of the tach somewhere.
      basic info: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=267380

      Getting close (if your lucky your schematic is posted here): http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=3741.0

      I found a list of resistor values and what to change them too somewhere in this thread deep down (end of page 4, beginning of 5. Yours may be different). http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index....9&topic=3096.0

    33. 03-14-2014 09:16 PM #208
      I just went through the whole thread and I gotta say I am impressed! You did a lot of work in the last year or two. I really want to go M-TDi as well and I have found a cheap pump online at http://www.hansdieselparts.com/RebuiltMTDIPump.htm but I am unsure how it will work in the end... I guess it is worth 500$ to find out lol
      Keep up the good work

    34. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      03-18-2014 12:07 AM #209
      Flying_Oliver here is an interior shot of where they will be going.. Making a fiberglass pod as we speak to house both of them as well as two 12v plugs and a two plug usb plug in.






      Red85GTI, thanks for the kind words. I would strongly advise against buying "a setup M-TDI pump" especially from anyone in NORTH CAROLINA by the name of Peter Rothenbacher. He is also hansdiesel, and emiata.. too many **** business names to keep up with.

      Not worth your time or money my friend. You would spend less to import a Land Rover 300TDI pump and retro fit what little there is to make it work.. and it would be a golden M-tdi pump right out of the box.

      Some more pictures! I got some good weather stripping around the heater core, and it is air tight.. but apparently the core is crap so it does STILL not blow good heat. Must be restricted internally.. or something.. because it does not blow good heat. Both hoses entering the core are hot as ****, so it should be.. wth, who knows.. I also did a new tensioner and arm bushings while i had the pump out for ease of everything. At the same time I put on new timing covers, and a new water pump pulley that fit properly without hacking the lower timing cover.. haha.










      Did some pump reno. Different cam-plate. Stopped using a 1.9AAZ one and started using the stock 1.9 AHU TDI one DE110. I also changed some springs on the governor assembly to get a more solid idle out of it. Timed currently to 1.25mm. I may try advancing to 1.30mm tomorrow for experiments sake. Mileage is through the roof right now, but could it get better? !







      RELAY'd the headlights. Cleaned up all the under hood circuitry that connected to the battery posts.. with a fuse block and neater routing of wiring in loom. Also got a new set of Autopal H4/H1's. 90/100W in the outer housings, and 100w highs inside.






      ADD LED TO CLUSTER!! ****ty picture in the dark of the LED lol... I took an already resisted LED light strip and added it to the cluster, It is a little brighter than stock.. but shouldn't burn out for the rest of the life of this vehicle lol.





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      03-24-2014 11:52 AM #210

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