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    1. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      12-09-2016 06:42 PM #51
      paint touch up by Jash Z, on Flickr
      skid plate by Jash Z, on Flickr

      So last week I fixed the paint on the rear hatch,and tomorrow Im going to install the ECS skid plate that came today.I know the skid plate adds some weight but I could always take it off for thingsAlso waiting for the hatch pop kit and Forge intake.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    2. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      12-23-2016 03:05 PM #52
      new R32 stuff by Jash Z, on Flickr
      New parts are stacking up.I got the hatch tray from another vortex user,It has Germany stamped on the bottom so I guess its OEM VW brand.The hatch tray is very high quality and much more then I expected.One of my favorite modifications to my R32 is the euro dash cubby because its so functional and I use it a lot so hopefully the hatch tray gets as much use.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    3. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      12-25-2016 02:49 PM #53
      Installed the Auto hatch pop kit today.Ever since I fixed the rust on my hatch Im enjoying #3900 again.It was getting so bad to see paint flaking under the emblem I was losing interest.Now with the Hatch storage tray and auto pop kit my rear ends all done.
      I spent some time on the suspension spec thread and since I installed my coil over kit my sway bars have probably been out of proper adjustment.At first I had the Solo werks shorter front end links and they didnt pass state inspection after 9 monthsTo get it passed inspection and done quickly I threw some factory length cheapo end links on knowing I would eventually learn the proper way to adjust the front end.From what I gather I am supposed to install the left side first and
      "For the Left Hand Side a minimum distance of 15mm between the Sway Bar (Anti-Roll Bar) and the Control Arm at full suspension droop needs to be maintained as shown below."
      I have some adjustable front end links from super pro but the quality of the finish is well....You can see a big gouge in the end link before it was coated blue and multiple chips and dings in the blue coating down to bare metal.They were in a sealed super pro bag and bubble wrapped inside that so no blame on ECS or shipping,more of a manufacturing issue. I have purchased blemished parts before"Eurobrace" and these BNIB end links are WORSE then a blemished part. So I will most likely send them back.I hate when its almost not worth the hassle but I purchased blue end links to match the calipers,springs,intake,and so on.Not sure If I would get a pair in better condition from super pro or just end up with a similar finish.
      Any thoughts on the 15mm gap between the control arm and sway bar?
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    4. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      12-30-2016 04:00 PM #54
      IMAG0189 by Jash Z, on Flickr

      Forge intake installed,I'm waiting for the kit to cover the hole in the firewall from the noise pipe.I also got rid of the VW V6 logo to carbon fiber wrap it to match the intake and put the R32 over that.Sent back the super pro sway bar end links that were damaged and ordered a pair from Spulen.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    5. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      12-31-2016 05:01 PM #55
      IMAG0194 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      shifter by Jash Z, on Flickr
      shifter 2 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      Found a good deal on some stick on paddle shift extensions.Very high quality for $20.I was afraid I would lose the factory feel and ergonomics but the cut out holes in the paddles are right where my fingers sit so its like having your finger in that dimple on the bottom of the factory plastic piece.They are a brushed finish and match the R32 perfect,The edges are a rounded smooth shiny/polished finish.Im no material expert but I assume its a polymervery light but quality!They even have the vertical lines to fit the R32 plastic paddles perfect,its not a cheap smooth piece with 3M over it.Its like they copied the VW piece.I know there are aluminium ones for $265 and "Grade 2 space age BS"$465 paddle shifters that require removal of the factory pieces but the stick on ones work for me.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    6. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      01-26-2017 11:23 AM #56
      So I use my knee sometimes to hold the steering wheel,For example I was getting my wallet out of my pocket while pulling up to an ATM and hit the new paddle shifter.I enabled my dual high beams and wow what a difference that makes.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    7. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-14-2017 03:50 PM #57
      Getting the R32 ready for a 950mile trip and noticed the Forge intake was rubbing the hood.It caused a wear mark scratch on the "carbon fiber"air filter housing.So I put the stock air box setup back in for the trip.Im about 3500 miles into this oil change debating if I should change it before this trip or after the trip but before WITW?Gotta pull the dipstick and see how it looks.Working on some other stuff like modifying the coin tray so I have a usb plug but can have the lid closed.I know they make the ones for the ESP spots but mine are already taken with cooler stuffI think I found the 12v cigarette plug thats short enough to pull it off with a 3 usb port and will be able to have the lid closed.I'll update when I get that finished.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    8. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-17-2017 07:45 PM #58
      Very excited about this one guys.I pulled it off and modified the coin tray so I can close it with the usb plug in the cigarette lighter. When its closed you cant see any of it and I think once its back in the car you wont even see the hole from the seats unless you bend down and look for it.I spotted this short usb plug one day but still needed a little more clearance.I removed the spun aluminium part from the top and then made a hole in the actual lid.That gives the extra bit of room you need and when you put the trim back on it still works like normal.Im running the wire through the bottom of the coin tray and will mount the usb port on that little 45 degree part next to the coin tray.It got dark today but tomorrow I'll post a pic of the final mounting point.If I had a dremel I could have made a cleaner hole but this was done with a drill and razor.Works for me because who cares about a hole in the bottom if you have the abilty to close it and still get use out of it.
      The plug is plugged in for this picture and the lid is closed
      IMAG0253 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0255 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    9. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-18-2017 07:52 PM #59
      IMAG0256 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0257 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      The sticky mount is a little off but its what I had laying around,Im gonna switch to a better 3m piece of double sided tape.Overall very happy with it.The coin tray functions like normal .I was running a usb plug from the hatch to the rear seat and then plugging my phone into that just because I hated the way it looked driving around with the coin tray open.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    10. Member
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      MKV R32
      02-19-2017 12:13 AM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by Jashcb7 View Post
      Installed the Auto hatch pop kit today.Ever since I fixed the rust on my hatch Im enjoying #3900 again.It was getting so bad to see paint flaking under the emblem I was losing interest.Now with the Hatch storage tray and auto pop kit my rear ends all done.
      I spent some time on the suspension spec thread and since I installed my coil over kit my sway bars have probably been out of proper adjustment.At first I had the Solo werks shorter front end links and they didnt pass state inspection after 9 monthsTo get it passed inspection and done quickly I threw some factory length cheapo end links on knowing I would eventually learn the proper way to adjust the front end.From what I gather I am supposed to install the left side first and
      "For the Left Hand Side a minimum distance of 15mm between the Sway Bar (Anti-Roll Bar) and the Control Arm at full suspension droop needs to be maintained as shown below."
      I have some adjustable front end links from super pro but the quality of the finish is well....You can see a big gouge in the end link before it was coated blue and multiple chips and dings in the blue coating down to bare metal.They were in a sealed super pro bag and bubble wrapped inside that so no blame on ECS or shipping,more of a manufacturing issue. I have purchased blemished parts before"Eurobrace" and these BNIB end links are WORSE then a blemished part. So I will most likely send them back.I hate when its almost not worth the hassle but I purchased blue end links to match the calipers,springs,intake,and so on.Not sure If I would get a pair in better condition from super pro or just end up with a similar finish.
      Any thoughts on the 15mm gap between the control arm and sway bar?

      Endlink adjustments are to be made with the car loaded on all 4 wheels. Yes, you are only suppose to set one side first (typically driver side, with driver weight in the seat). The more important factor is the distance between the LCA and ASB at full compression and full lock. This will be difficult to do with the spring installed (not necessary to perform), but it ensures the endlink is not fouling on three key points ; the inner fender liner, the axle, and the LCA. To set the preload on the opposite side (once you fully locked in the position for the first side), adjust the threads up/down until it lines up with the ASB hole. Tighten the bolt down snug, loosen the bar nuts open and adjust the middle bar so that it's loose without resistance, then torque all the threads down.

      It's pretty overkill to check the total space at full compression, and honestly it's unnecessary. You can eyeball it well enough with the wheels loaded. Simply line up the space in between the axle and the LCA. The ASB arm should be situated evenly between the two, maybe slightly closer to the axle.

    11. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-21-2017 07:37 PM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by MaysEffect View Post
      Endlink adjustments are to be made with the car loaded on all 4 wheels. Yes, you are only suppose to set one side first (typically driver side, with driver weight in the seat). The more important factor is the distance between the LCA and ASB at full compression and full lock. This will be difficult to do with the spring installed (not necessary to perform), but it ensures the endlink is not fouling on three key points ; the inner fender liner, the axle, and the LCA. To set the preload on the opposite side (once you fully locked in the position for the first side), adjust the threads up/down until it lines up with the ASB hole. Tighten the bolt down snug, loosen the bar nuts open and adjust the middle bar so that it's loose without resistance, then torque all the threads down.

      It's pretty overkill to check the total space at full compression, and honestly it's unnecessary. You can eyeball it well enough with the wheels loaded. Simply line up the space in between the axle and the LCA. The ASB arm should be situated evenly between the two, maybe slightly closer to the axle.

      Thanks Mays.I still have the adjustable end links in the box because its cold and I dont really know what im doing haha.As soon as its warm enough im gonna try installing them.


      So the ECS auto hatch pop kit lasted about a monthThe other day I went into a store and the horn didnt beep when I locked it.I came out and realized the car on the MFD had the hatch open.So after a couple open and shuts the light went off.Later that night same thing,no horn when locking and hatch open.A couple days went by with no issues and this morning the alarm started going off.Walked out and looked at the MFD sure enough hatch open.IDK what that BS is about but if it happens again the stock parts will be going back on.
      On a positive note working on a hole-less front grill
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    12. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-25-2017 05:31 PM #62
      IMAG0267 by Jash Z, on Flickr

      If anyone was wondering how big the 12v plug is to do the coin tray modification.I woulda felt really stupid if I cut that hole and it still didnt close.Got lucky on that but this hole-less grill is a pain.Going for the bondo,glaze putty,and then probably a plasti dip.I have a few different color options, bright aluminium plasti dip I have but if its too metal flakey i'll go black but im committed at this point.I Have a few cans of the glow in the dark blue plasti dip which looks white-ish.I wanted to fill the plate holes and just touch up the little spots but it would have never looked right because behind the plate is like new and the rest has 8 years of fading and dings.I've had it black before but that was with the plate and different wheels so IDK gonna see how this "bright aluminium"looks and go from there
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    13. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-25-2017 07:19 PM #63
      IMAG0264 by Jash Z, on Flickr

      Current status....See what I mean about the fading around the plate.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      02-27-2017 10:10 PM #64
      IMAG0268 by Jash Z, on Flickr

      So0o0o I really wanted to keep the brushed aluminium look on the front grill but 2 things made me go carbon fiber wrap.#1 Its too cold and windy to paint,#2 I had this carbon fiber wrap sitting here for something else.I just gotta put it back on the car tomorrow and see how it looks with no front plate and a carbon fiber grill.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    15. Member
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      08/VW/MKVR32
      03-02-2017 12:52 AM #65
      Welcome to the neighborhood and congrats!!

    16. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      03-08-2017 04:56 PM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by parklane View Post
      Welcome to the neighborhood and congrats!!
      Thanks,I made a noob mistake when I started/named this thread but didnt want to start a new one.

      I've had my LED's up front for awhile now but I never mounted the toggle switch.I was in a drilly mood after doing the "Pee"modification to the rear wiper.So I put it right under the light dimmer switch.Fun little projects.The rear wiper stopped working thats why I did the pee mod but I gotta figure out the wiper tomorrow.All of the fuses look good and it still squirts,didnt have anyone to hit the lever while I listen to the motor.
      IMAG0304 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0303 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      03-16-2017 06:29 PM #67
      So the ECS auto hatch pop kit lasted about a monthThe other day I went into a store and the horn didnt beep when I locked it.I came out and realized the car on the MFD had the hatch open.So after a couple open and shuts the light went off.Later that night same thing,no horn when locking and hatch open.A couple days went by with no issues and this morning the alarm started going off.Walked out and looked at the MFD sure enough hatch open.IDK what that BS is about but if it happens again the stock parts will be going back on.
      On a positive note working on a hole-less front grill[/QUOTE]

      A month went by and the hatch was fine until today when it said it was open all the time.I checked the hatch bumpers and adjusted them in even though there was only 1 notch left.That didn't help.I switched to the factory bumpers that didn't help.I could latch it with my finger so I know the spring was good,Then the MFD says its shut so the electronic switch is ok. Looking at the piece the latch hooks around I noticed it had a plastic coating that was worn off.I wrapped a strip of tape around that vertical piece and it fixed it.Maybe it was latching but that roller piece wore down and wasn't getting to the final 2nd click of the latch.Its only been a couple hours so i'll wait and see if the alarm goes off again.

      I also put some Velcro on my gas cap and fuel door.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    18. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      03-17-2017 11:03 AM #68
      The tape didnt work and the next day the hatch is always open again.I tried adjusting the latch point by sliding it,that didnt work.Removed the latch and cleaned the connection even though it works everytime I close it with my finger but not when I shut the hatch.Ive watched the Humble Mech's vid on mk5 hatch failure and I dont think I have any of those 3(spring,MFI,or scrw).Right now it says its latched but I cant seem to find a consistent method of making it say its closed or making it fail to figure out what it is.Starting to think it might be connected to the rear wiper not working.To be continued.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    19. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      03-19-2017 06:35 PM #69
      Used this lube for plastic parts on the hatch latch screw and insides, fingers crossed again.

      Finally I have a front grill with no plate holes.I carbon fiber wrapped it because it was too cold to paint when I filled the plate holes.I hate it with carbon fiber.I have had it plasti dipped black before with a front plate so I knew I didn't like that look.After lots of trying and failing with different color options I found something thats sorta brushed aluminium.Any faults you see are mine and Im proud of them lol because I suck at painting but its fun learning how to bondo and stuff.Too much catalyst or not enough and that stuff.You can wet sand plasti dip with a 600grit it might fix some runs.I can always redo it because its plasti dip.Now I have the colors I would use if I do it again.Its super thick now with White,gunmetal,bright aluminium metalizer,silver metalizer,and a light glossifier coat.
      I will wash the car tomorrow and get better pics
      Snapshot 3 (3-19-2017 6-20 PM) by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0317 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0313 by Jash Z, on Flickr


      Its only been on the car 20minutes and its still tacky but I like the way the light hits it.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      03-20-2017 07:21 PM #70
      IMAG0319 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0324 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0322 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      More pics of the front grill after filling the holes
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

    21. 03-20-2017 08:06 PM #71


      Here's a pic of my brand new oem hole less grille for you to compare! Looks good man keep it up


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    22. Junior Member United.:R32's Avatar
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      MK5 .:R32 - MK4 1.8T GTI
      03-21-2017 10:01 AM #72
      Quote Originally Posted by Jashcb7 View Post
      IMAG0319 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0324 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0322 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      More pics of the front grill after filling the holes
      Grill looks super good, its super hard to get a good color match with plasti dip but that looks perfect. Also I have to get a cupra r lip looks awesome.

    23. Member
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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      03-21-2017 08:39 PM #73
      Thanks guys.You cant see reflections in mine,it looks a little rubber-ish up close.Maybe a thicker layer of clear coat if I decide to redo it and fix the couple mistakes/runs.I was mixing the silver metalizer and bright aluminium metalizer and just lightly hit it with glossifier but im glad I didnt get a sparkly flake finish.
      Removed the noise pipe and resonator today.Patched the firewall with the ecs kit..I didnt drive far or hard to hear intake noise but it seemed quieter just going down the driveway.
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      04-26-2017 06:09 PM #74
      About a month ago my rear wiper stopped working....The last couple weeks it said I had a reverse light out sometimes....Today I have an airbag fault but when I put it in reverse my rear wiper worked again.Im sure this is a wiring issue like the hood hinge wires that wore through and I already fixed.At this point im over it.Im sure I can fix it with VCDS but IDC.No more fixing VW's ****y wiring.Im in the process of taking pics of all of my after market parts,Major part out listing will be posted tonight of all of my after market parts.Skid plate,eurosport Xbrace,Forge intake,euro dash cubby,hatch storage tray,and much more
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

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      CW MKV R32 #3900
      04-29-2017 04:18 PM #75
      IMAG0416 by Jash Z, on Flickr
      IMAG0417 by Jash Z, on Flickr

      Both sides of the hatch wires were ****ed.I fixed the hood hinge wires a while back thanks to ppl on here.Just cheap ****y wireCleared all the codes and the rear wiper works again.Going back out to continue stripping my parts to add to the for sale list.Check it out!
      Check out my youtube channel for R32 videos/modifications/repairs https://www.youtube.com/user/joshcb7
      Thanks to everyone on Vortex who helps me keep my R32 running

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