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    1. 04-09-2015 08:21 AM #51
      Well, as it turns out the ball joints don't fit the spindles.

      Last night I got the upper an lower control arms bolted in place, went to install the passengers side spindle and it wouldn't slip over either ball joint. I guess the drop spindles use 71-72 ball joints instead of 63-70, which is what I bought. I happened to have a set of 71-72 upper ball joints, but I had to order lower ball joints. Since the parts store was closed when I realized this I wasn't able to go much further. I'll pick them up this afternoon and get them in this evening.

    2. 04-09-2015 08:41 AM #52
      Oh! And the body repair sections came in the other day. I had to leave work and go meet the delivery driver since they sent it freight in a semi and couldn't access my parents neighborhood.


      Hopefully next week I can set the cab back down on the frame and start patching.

    3. Member BoostedOne's Avatar
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      04-09-2015 02:08 PM #53
      That Ford is a beauty!!

    4. 04-13-2015 09:31 AM #54
      I haven't really touched the truck since Thursday. I pressed the new lower ball joints and put the spindles back on and realized the upper control arm was still hitting the top of the spindle. The 71-72 upper ball joints that I had installed still didn't fit correctly and that 73+ c10 upper ball joints are what I needed for the drop spindles. Got those and installed them, started reassembling the front steering components and the outer tie rod ends wouldn't fit. Turns out the aftermarket spindles also use 73+ c10 outer tie rod ends which have a larger thread size than the 67-70 parts. Confusing. So I ordered a set of billet tie rod couplers from Classic Performance that should be in later this week that have a larger hole on the outside for the larger tie rod ends and smaller on the inside for the stock inner tie rod ends. Otherwise I would have had to change the center link, idler arm and pitman arm. That looked like it was going to cost more than the tie rod end couplers from CPP that I ordered.

      I did install the shocks though, I bought stock replacements from Monroe. Since the truck has 2in drop springs I didn't think it warranted using drop shocks, most of the drop shocks I saw were for trucks with 3-4in drops with springs. Since most of the lowering on my truck was done with spindles and blocks I'm not too concerned with how it's going to ride. I left them yellow, almost painted them but I didn't think they looked too terrible.





      I think the aftermarket center crossmember looks cool in there. I also like how the yellow chromate hardware stands out against the black. Black and gooolddd.



      I guess I'm going to try and run the brake lines tonight and reassemble the rear brakes since I'm waiting on those couplers to come in. Maybe by the end of the week I'll be ready to start fitting body parts after all.

    5. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      04-13-2015 10:44 AM #55
      That crossmember looks great in there!

    6. 04-13-2015 10:59 AM #56
      Awesome stuff so far

    7. 04-13-2015 07:08 PM #57
      Built the rear brake lines and installed them. I followed the contours of the original lines but ran the drivers side over top of the pumpkin instead of in front of the cover. I'm not sure if the lines I pulled off were stock either, but it would have kept you from pulling the cover without removing the brake line, which I thought was dumb.



      Also put the rear brakes back together. Before I ripped the truck apart I did put new wheel cylinders, hardware kids and shoes on it. I took a few terrible pics with my cell phone before disassembling but they did very little the help me reassemble them. Took a few minutes of head scratching before I was able to figure them out again.



      And lastly I put the backing plates back on the spindles in preparation to re-install the rotors. Even used grade 8 hardware to secure them, cause that's how I roll.



      Now I've got to meet my better half at the grocery store. My tie rod couplers are supposedly on track to be delivered tomorrow, so hopefully they will show up and hopefully I'll get a few hours in the evening to finish the front end up.

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      04-13-2015 09:23 PM #58
      Awesome I really want an old truck

      I don't know why, but it is really satisfying to get new hardware.

    9. Geriatric Member Aonarch's Avatar
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      04-13-2015 10:03 PM #59
      Quote Originally Posted by CactusAvant View Post
      Awesome I really want an old truck

      I don't know why, but it is really satisfying to get new hardware.
      Same. I'd love a C10.

    10. 04-14-2015 09:05 AM #60
      Yeah, they're neat and easy as pie to work on. I also like that anything you can imagine for these trucks is readily available from any number of vendors. Half the time I work on stuff I find myself modifying parts to fit or building parts specifically for my application, which is fun too, but something about opening a catalog and ordering whatever it is you want is also fun. Kind of like building a big model car.

      Aonarch, do you work at Butler Tire?

    11. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      04-14-2015 09:34 AM #61
      Man, being able to work on a bare frame is sooooooo great. I don't know how it could be easier and more thorough than that. I still have yet to pull a body off of a pan on any car, as it simply hasn't been necessary for any of my cars that I've gone through... Somehow I feel that's wrong, though.

      I might've painted the shocks... Are there particular period-correct colors that you know of? I had thought about painting my KYBs in KONI green at some point, but I'm not detailing the underside, so that may or may not ever happen.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    12. 04-14-2015 10:06 AM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Man, being able to work on a bare frame is sooooooo great. I don't know how it could be easier and more thorough than that. I still have yet to pull a body off of a pan on any car, as it simply hasn't been necessary for any of my cars that I've gone through... Somehow I feel that's wrong, though.

      I might've painted the shocks... Are there particular period-correct colors that you know of? I had thought about painting my KYBs in KONI green at some point, but I'm not detailing the underside, so that may or may not ever happen.
      I haven't needed to pull the body off of any of the cars I've built.

      With this truck though it seemed like a no brainer. The entire front end needed to be pulled apart to replace the core support (hood, fenders, inner fenders..) and the bed had to come off so that I could weld in cab corners. Since the cab is only held on by four bolts and the wiring harness disconnects with a pigtail at the frame, it only took an extra 30-45 minutes for me to pull it and set it on a dolly. Made everything SO much easier to work on. I guess if I didn't have a lift I might be a little more apprehensive to pull the body, but having it enabled me to pull the body by myself.

      I'm not sure about period colors, I had just thought of painting them silver on a friends recommendation. At least the yellow makes it look new.

    13. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      04-14-2015 10:16 AM #63
      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      I'm not sure about period colors, I had just thought of painting them silver on a friends recommendation. At least the yellow makes it look new.
      I actually think the yellow might be stock. the shocks I pulled off of mine were yellow, just a dingy, dirtier version. Did you reuse the existing shocks that you had?

    14. 04-14-2015 10:42 AM #64
      No when I got the truck it had air shocks on the rear. I was just going to replace the rears and paint the fronts to match but it turned out to be like $10 difference to buy all four since the place I ordered from offered free shipping on orders over $75.

    15. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      04-14-2015 11:33 AM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      I haven't needed to pull the body off of any of the cars I've built.
      LOL.

      OK, there are two I wish I had, but it really wasn't necessary.


      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      With this truck though it seemed like a no brainer. The entire front end needed to be pulled apart to replace the core support (hood, fenders, inner fenders..) and the bed had to come off so that I could weld in cab corners. Since the cab is only held on by four bolts and the wiring harness disconnects with a pigtail at the frame, it only took an extra 30-45 minutes for me to pull it and set it on a dolly. Made everything SO much easier to work on. I guess if I didn't have a lift I might be a little more apprehensive to pull the body, but having it enabled me to pull the body by myself.

      I'm not sure about period colors, I had just thought of painting them silver on a friends recommendation. At least the yellow makes it look new.
      You're right. If you have the tools, knowledge and space to store everything it's a no-brainer. By the time it's finished it'll really make it into a really nice truck for a relatively small investment of extra $ and time. Also, as you already know, the extra time will likely be saved when doing cab corners and whatnot.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    16. 04-14-2015 11:58 AM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      You're right. If you have the tools, knowledge and space to store everything it's a no-brainer. By the time it's finished it'll really make it into a really nice truck for a relatively small investment of extra $ and time. Also, as you already know, the extra time will likely be saved when doing cab corners and whatnot.
      You're absolutely right. Honestly every bit of this could have been done in a weeks time if I'd taken off and devoted 8-9 hour days to it. Especially knowing everything that I know now. It's just taken longer since I'm only able to work on it a few hours a day, a few days a week. It didn't cost much more, only difference in cost was the paint and hardware. Everything else needed to be gone through anyways.

    17. 04-16-2015 09:07 AM #67
      Tuesday night I went ahead and stripped the interior bare. Most of it was already gutted but I went ahead and pulled the rest of the HVAC and the wiring harness. Also pulled all of the glass. To my surprise the cab is pretty rust free.


      And the tie rod couplers came in yesterday. Can't believe that they cost $50, I can't imagine them costing more than a few cents to make. Oh well, at least they look good!


      They really tie the front end together. Literally.



      And with those installed, the chassis is finished. Only a week longer than I anticipated. I think I might drop the engine in it tonight so that I can go ahead and start measuring for the transmission crossmember and so that I can get a better idea of how the truck sits on the new wheels and tires (which I still don't have..). I guess sometime next week I'll start fitting the body back on the frame so I can start body work.

    18. 04-22-2015 10:09 AM #68
      Got the engine in Monday night. Some of you may know that I am going with a big block in this truck. It's a 454 .030 over with a fairly aggressive cam, ported heads and roller rockers. The trans is a TCI unit with a 2200 stall, I "polished" it with one of those Dico wheels and that everyone was talking about a while back. Turned out great. When I bought the truck the PO was telling me about the motor mounts, I was confused as to why they were special but looking at a stock truck I realized that they are completely different.


      Also got some headers in the mail over the weekend. I didn't want the rusty headers that had been on the truck to be the downfall of the engine bay so I picked up a set of used ceramic coated hookers for $250 off eBay, which is less than half of what they were new on summit. The coating is still in good shape except for a few spots where it rubbed the frame rail..once I installed them those spots are completely hidden. I'm going to have to grind the flange on the passengers side header because the ARP head bolts are too tall and hit it.


      Onto the engine




      I also picked up some aftermarket factory style valve covers, which I think look pretty good. I just wish the didn't have the mounting tabs for wire looms since I've already built a set of plug wires that run underneath the headers. I had to get aftermarket so that they would clear the roller rockers.


      And the headers are pretty tight against the frame rail on the drivers side. I may have to do something about that.


      I may also have to rethink the exhaust, the headers hang a lot lower than I had anticipated so in order for me to run the piping through the frame I'd have to have some pretty funky bends


      Might press the u-joints so that I can install the driveshaft tonight, otherwise I'll probably try to pick back up next week and start getting the body mounted so that I can line everything up.

    19. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      04-22-2015 10:12 AM #69
      HELL YES!!

    20. Member EnIgMa '06's Avatar
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      04-22-2015 10:20 AM #70
      Damn that is badass! I can't image those headers are going to last long though...the merges are only a few inches off the ground.

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      04-22-2015 10:39 AM #71
      Great progress man. This is gonna be nice

    22. 04-22-2015 11:39 AM #72
      Quote Originally Posted by EnIgMa '06 View Post
      Damn that is badass! I can't image those headers are going to last long though...the merges are only a few inches off the ground.
      It's funny you say that, because I didn't think it was too terrible.

      I hope the top half of the truck turns out as nice as the bottom half did. Not like I spent a whole ton of extra money on the chassis, but I spent a lot of time making sure that it was right.

      Also, installing the engine yielded a few chips in the paint. That is exactly why I waned to go with this paint vs powdercoat. I hit those areas with a brush and they blended right in, you'd never know I took to paint off there. I know powdercoat is probably more durable, but I've chipped the powder off of a subframe installing an engine before, and with that it's a lot bigger pain in the ass to fix.

    23. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      04-22-2015 11:46 AM #73
      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      It's funny you say that, because I didn't think it was too terrible.
      I don't think its that bad either.. I think you're sitting roughly about the same height as my collectors. My other truck the collectors were sitting much lower, and I only remember banging them a couple times when I wasn't paying attention.

      The other option would be instead of throwing long tubes in, go with a set of shorties that has the collectors right below the firewall... that way you can run the exhaust more inside the frame rails. But I am a fan of the long tubes myself.

    24. 04-22-2015 11:50 AM #74
      Yeah, I like long tubes, especially on an engine like what's going in. Although the thought had crossed my mind to buy a set of mid or short headers. Unfortunately prices for big block headers is a lot higher than small block. I just did a quick search on summit and there actually aren't any shorty or mid length headers for the truck with a big block.

      My el camino had collectors that were about 1.5in from the ground and I only hit them a time or two getting in or out of driveways.
      Last edited by Harrison.; 04-22-2015 at 11:53 AM.

    25. 04-24-2015 11:54 AM #75
      Mounted the body back on the frame yesterday evening and started working on lining the gaps up. I feel like these trucks had poorly fitted panels from the factory, most of the trucks I see have terrible gaps.


      I installed new energy suspension poly cab and core support bushings but with them in the cab seemed to set too low and the lower body line was about half an inch too low. I spaced it up in the rear with washers but I'm going to pick up some 3in aluminum round rod after work so that I can build spacers out of it. The front passengers side fender and core support are aftermarket pieces and don't fit quite correctly, so I'll have to cut and massage some metal into place to get the front end gaps lined up. It feels tedious bolting the entire truck back together to take it back apart probably sometime next week. I wanted to line the doors up especially before I cut the rockers out, and probably build some door braces to keep the cab from flexing when I cut the pan halves out.

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