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    1. 04-28-2015 09:08 AM #76
      Picked up that Aluminum to build body spacers out of, I'll try and cut them tonight and get them in



      And the tires came in!! I had them mounted and balanced, finally able to bolt them on the truck and see how they looked



      I put about 400lbs of sand bags in the engine bay and interior to simulate weight from the rest of the weight from radiator, gas tank, seat, fluids etc.

      I think it's going to sit great, the wheels are 20x8 and 20x10 with 255/40/20 and 285/40/20 tires. You'd be surprised how hard it was to find a matching set of tires for the front and rear in different sizes like that. I settled on these nitto 420s, which look right at home on this truck. I'm debating on running a 1/4in spacer on the rear to bring the wheels a little further out, and the front fenders are going to need to be modified because when the liners are in the bolts securing them would tear the tires up when you turn. It's starting to feel like a truck again!

    2. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      04-28-2015 10:54 AM #77
      Dude, those wheels look perfect on it!!

    3. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      04-28-2015 11:09 AM #78
      Yeah. Those wheels are fantastic!

      What are your plans for the fuel tank? Wiill you be putting it in the stock location?

      My dad is building a 69, and because we both are a little bit taller, he's actually got a fuel tank that looks like a tool box in the bed. I've always been a little nervous about having the tank in the cab, and I don't even smoke!

      Chris
      | 2017 Korean Appliance SE | 2008 Suburban LTZ | 2003 Dodge Ram | 2002 BMW 530i con mañuel | 1974 SuperBeetle x 2 | 1979 Camaro | 1975 Scout |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

    4. 04-28-2015 12:32 PM #79
      I plan on putting the stock fuel tank back in, I have thought off and on about moving it to the back though. I've got a relocation kit for that '72 C10 that's in the background of a lot of my pictures but I already bought the new tank for the truck I'm building.

    5. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      04-28-2015 12:37 PM #80
      Quote Originally Posted by 200HP4dr View Post
      I've always been a little nervous about having the tank in the cab, and I don't even smoke!
      Dad used to have a '67 F150 with the tank behind the seat. The rubber hose always made me a bit nervous, as well as listening to it slosh around 6" behind you, especially when filling it up!

      I think I'd relocate it on that fact alone.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    6. 05-27-2015 10:31 AM #81
      Build a rotisserie they said, it will be easy they said.


      I was starting to think I would never work on the truck again. It actually wasn't that bad, just really time consuming. I spent the past month building this and finished it up last night. I'd looked at a few and thought that A) I could build a better one and B) I could build it cheaper than buying it. The ones I'd looked at were mostly constructed out of 14 gauge steel tubing and looked flimsy to me. I did successfully build a tank of a rotisserie though, and I did only spend a few hundred (vs several thousand) but if I had to do it again, I'd probably buy one. If I put a value on my time it would have far exceeded what I saved. If you were to buy the steel it would have been pretty darned expensive also, my dad managed to source most of the 2in 1/4 wall tubing for free, but I still spent a good bit on the 2.5in 3/16 wall tubing that the rest of the thing is constructed out of. I'm hoping to mount the bed on it tonight and see how it works.

    7. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      05-27-2015 11:33 AM #82
      Looks like its coming along nicely!

      Chris
      | 2017 Korean Appliance SE | 2008 Suburban LTZ | 2003 Dodge Ram | 2002 BMW 530i con mañuel | 1974 SuperBeetle x 2 | 1979 Camaro | 1975 Scout |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

    8. 06-05-2015 12:09 PM #83
      Haven't touched the truck in a week or so, finally mounted the bed to the rotisserie last night and it works awesome. Once you find the balance point the crank turns the bed in circles with ease. Took the morning off to run some errands but spent about an hour sand blasting the bed floor to see how it turned out. Normally I'd be concerned about warpage but the bed floor is really rigid and I'll be coating it in bed liner anyways. I've already cut the sides down to metal with a DA and will be doing a good bit of repair to them (I'll get pics later).


      A better pic of the underside of the bed for BobL.


      And I can't help myself from buying more junk. Bought a '65 F100 from it's original owner a few nights ago, picked it up and put it in storage so I don't have any pics right now other than the pic right before I yanked it out of the shed it'd been sitting in since 1986.


      Last edited by Harrison.; 06-05-2015 at 12:18 PM.

    9. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      06-05-2015 12:12 PM #84
      haha now that's the perfect underside shot of the bed that I need!!

    10. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-05-2015 12:57 PM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by BobL2438 View Post
      haha now that's the perfect underside shot of the bed that I need!!
      Either that or the bed itself! That's pretty damn solid for one of those old beds. You iz a lucky dood, Harrison.

      What I want is that rotisserie!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    11. 06-05-2015 01:06 PM #86
      The bed is really solid, and it's all original.

      Build yourself a rotisserie! If you have patience it's actually pretty darned easy. Just make sure everything is square.

    12. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-05-2015 01:48 PM #87
      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      The bed is really solid, and it's all original.
      Niiiiice.

      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      Build yourself a rotisserie! If you have patience it's actually pretty darned easy. Just make sure everything is square.
      I need to get with my welder buddy and just do it. He's the guy who I worked with when we were making/modifying panels to put my basket case '66 together. We have very complimentary skills and he's learned a thing or two since then. Between the two of us we could figure out how we want it and just start building.

      Then I'd just need a building to put it in, of course!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    13. 06-17-2015 10:33 AM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      And the tires came in!! I had them mounted and balanced, finally able to bolt them on the truck and see how they looked

      sexy. I have been browsing craigslist for a C10 lately, but I want to put it on airbags. that suspension looks so good I may just lower it. for the air bags they have a bolt in kit for 63-72s that came with rear springs for $1k.

      how much could I expect to pay to just lower it?
      tips on finding a c10? I want to keep it under $5k if possible
      did any come with A/C?
      I want a stepside but they seem impossible to find.

    14. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-17-2015 12:12 PM #89
      Quote Originally Posted by robhurlburt View Post
      sexy. I have been browsing craigslist for a C10 lately, but I want to put it on airbags. that suspension looks so good I may just lower it. for the air bags they have a bolt in kit for 63-72s that came with rear springs for $1k.

      how much could I expect to pay to just lower it?
      tips on finding a c10? I want to keep it under $5k if possible
      did any come with A/C?
      I want a stepside but they seem impossible to find.
      Lowering a leaf spring rear end is cheap as long as there's frame clearance, which would need to be done whether you use lowering blocks or bags. The front end geometry advice I'll leave to someone with more experience than I.

      Get the least rusty and straightest truck you can. It's much easier to get a truck running or swap an engine/trans than it is to make a rusty truck 'right'. Unless of course you're a welder/fabricator/bodywork guy. Even then a straight/less rusty vehicle will make a much better starting point... Assuming you can find one, of course.

      Some did come with A/C, but that can be installed if not. Vintage Air and some other companies make complete kits, but if the truck (and/or donor engine) had it it's likely a lot cheaper to fix/update what's there.

      Stepsides are OK if that's your preference, but I rather like the sleek fleetside for a truck of this vintage. To me they just look smoooooth and the body lines match up so well. To each his or her own, of course. That's the beauty of building it yourself!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    15. Member LT1M21Stingray's Avatar
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      06-17-2015 01:58 PM #90
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Get the least rusty and straightest truck you can. It's much easier to get a truck running or swap an engine/trans than it is to make a rusty truck 'right'. Unless of course you're a welder/fabricator/bodywork guy. Even then a straight/less rusty vehicle will make a much better starting point... Assuming you can find one, of course.
      Rust takes forever to fix. But rust free trucks are out there, you just have to be patient.
      Quote Originally Posted by Mk1Madness
      Back when making your car faster and better handling was the big thing.
      Quote Originally Posted by Tavarish
      The car's best safety feature includes ejecting you in the moment of impact and wishing you the best of luck.

    16. 06-17-2015 02:49 PM #91
      Quote Originally Posted by robhurlburt View Post
      sexy. I have been browsing craigslist for a C10 lately, but I want to put it on airbags. that suspension looks so good I may just lower it. for the air bags they have a bolt in kit for 63-72s that came with rear springs for $1k.

      how much could I expect to pay to just lower it?
      tips on finding a c10? I want to keep it under $5k if possible
      did any come with A/C?
      I want a stepside but they seem impossible to find.
      Thanks!

      Air ride is easy on them, made even easier with companies like Porterbuilt but that costs $$$. Most of these trucks came with coil spring rear ends, especially short bed trucks. You can get away with lowering the rear about 5-6" without notching the frame, but a bolt in C notch is like $100 from cpp.

      I ran 2.5in drop spindles up front and 2" springs front and rear with 2" blocks in the rear. That way it will ride closer to stock. You can pick up spindles for about $250 shipped and a full set of drop shocks and lowering springs will run you about $3-400. CPP always has kits listed on ebay and you can call and they will set you up with whatever drop spring you want with the package.

      You can find these trucks for under $5k but you may have to search a little harder for a short bed. Long beds are easy to find under $5k. Just look for something that's within your skill range. Common places to rot out are the cab supports, rocker panels, cab corners and floors. A lot I've seen also rot out around the windshield. If possible I'd try and find one that's already been converted to disc brakes or came with them factory (71-72 were the only years for factory discs).

      They did come with A/C, in fact I've got an A/C dash I bought for mine but decided not to put it in, but like Air and Water said you can always get an under dash unit from Vintage Air

      Stepsides are harder to find but they are out there, just know that it's gonna be harder to fit much tire under those flares.

    17. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      06-17-2015 02:57 PM #92
      For some odd reason, I prefer my C10's with a long bed and two tone paint. You can probably find a really nice long bed for $5k.

      Chris
      | 2017 Korean Appliance SE | 2008 Suburban LTZ | 2003 Dodge Ram | 2002 BMW 530i con mañuel | 1974 SuperBeetle x 2 | 1979 Camaro | 1975 Scout |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

    18. 06-17-2015 03:04 PM #93
      Also, this is my poster child for cheap bagged old trucks.



      Truck was bought for $600 non running, some friends put a 350 together out of parts we had laying around (literally built the engine and had it in the truck in a weekend, you can read about that here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...eekend-project) and we pieced together an air ride kit out of stuff we had laying around. I understand that not everyone has all that laying around but the truck was run off of a single Viair 580c pump and firestone bags. It shared air, which isn't the most ideal setup but I bet you could replicate it for under $600 if you shopped around.

      That truck didn't have drop spindles or a notch either, with those I bet it would lay frame.

    19. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      06-17-2015 03:08 PM #94
      Long beds seem to be way more available than short beds now a days... at least in my searches.

    20. 06-17-2015 04:02 PM #95
      tons of good info, thanks.

      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      I ran 2.5in drop spindles up front and 2" springs front and rear with 2" blocks in the rear. That way it will ride closer to stock. You can pick up spindles for about $250 shipped and a full set of drop shocks and lowering springs will run you about $3-400. CPP always has kits listed on ebay and you can call and they will set you up with whatever drop spring you want with the package.
      http://www.bcfab.com/Complete-FBSS-A...-1_p_1010.html

      so do the air bagged trucks ride like crap compared to a drop kit? I just think they look so cool, and it seems like for maybe $500 more I could go air bagged.

      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      Stepsides are harder to find but they are out there, just know that it's gonna be harder to fit much tire under those flares.
      hmm... good point. do you plan to make the flairs in your bed any bigger or keep them as-is?

    21. 06-17-2015 07:34 PM #96
      Quote Originally Posted by robhurlburt View Post
      tons of good info, thanks.



      http://www.bcfab.com/Complete-FBSS-A...-1_p_1010.html

      so do the air bagged trucks ride like crap compared to a drop kit? I just think they look so cool, and it seems like for maybe $500 more I could go air bagged.



      hmm... good point. do you plan to make the flairs in your bed any bigger or keep them as-is?
      No, bagged trucks generally ride pretty well. It's **it in one hand or **it in the other in my opinion. Just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's good, but you do get the air ride you're after. Good air ride setups cost a lot of $$$ whereas you can have a pretty well riding and handling truck on a static drop for pretty cheap and not have to worry about air leaks etc. There's a lot to consider bagging one, with the truck I posted we didn't care about the bed floor, the fact that the rearend pushed to one side once it was aired out, etc.

      My truck will be different anyway because it's a fleetside, stepside pickups will always have less room for tires because the wheel wells are narrower. I'll still have to modify my inner bed sides though because I'm going to end up running spacers to set the wheels out and the tires will rub.

    22. 06-18-2015 09:35 AM #97
      So I finished media blasting the bed floor and a few surfaces on the inside. The bed is refreshingly solid although I'll still have a bunch of small patches to make. It would probably be just as easy to replace the pieces with aftermarket metal but all I have is time at this point and the original metal is much thicker than the aftermarket stuff I've seen. I've already started straightening the bed floor, inner fender wells and patching small holes that were left from a rack or something that had been installed at one point. You can see a few spots where I used heat to shrink the metal.


      My dad turned me onto a cool trick, which is to surround the metal you are welding with sheetrock mud to help absorb the heat and reduce warping. It seems to work really well, I used it when filling the holes left from the rack and it kept warpage to a minimum. You can nearly touch the parent metal after welding. This is one of the holes I filled, haven't worked the metal at all other than knocking it down with a grinder and flap wheel.

      Knocked the outside surfaces of the bed down with a DA, lots of work to be done. At some point body damage had been repaired with tons of bondo..


      And the worst part, I'll be cutting this whole section out and building a patch panel from some 18 gauge steel.


      I started cutting patch panels for the inside of the bed last night but haven't started cutting yet. I figured I'd start on the inside first and work up my courage to cut the entire side of the bed off.

    23. Member BobL2438's Avatar
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      06-18-2015 10:40 AM #98
      Dude, that floor looks great!

      I started picking at a crack in my passenger bedside and I think that whole side was caved in at one point. There's at least a 1/4 inch of plastic in some spots I've gotten to.
      Oh the fun of patch panels, right!?!

      Love the progress so far do0d!

    24. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-18-2015 10:47 AM #99
      Quote Originally Posted by BobL2438 View Post
      Dude, that floor looks great!

      I started picking at a crack in my passenger bedside and I think that whole side was caved in at one point. There's at least a 1/4 inch of plastic in some spots I've gotten to.
      Oh the fun of patch panels, right!?!

      Love the progress so far do0d!
      Yeah, I honestly don't know how long it's been since I've seen an original Chevy truck bed that solid!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    25. 06-18-2015 11:10 AM #100
      Quote Originally Posted by BobL2438 View Post
      Dude, that floor looks great!

      I started picking at a crack in my passenger bedside and I think that whole side was caved in at one point. There's at least a 1/4 inch of plastic in some spots I've gotten to.
      Oh the fun of patch panels, right!?!

      Love the progress so far do0d!
      Thanks man!

      Yeah, when I got the truck there was a little crack and when I picked at it there was a LOT of mud in there. It blows my mind some of the "bondo art" I've come across between my bug and this C10. I have to respect whoever did it though, they were good at working with the stuff. Just wish they'd fixed the metal underneath first.

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