Lets talk shocks....specifically for GS class use(so no coilovers)
John (VRUM VR6) has Koni Sport on his car. Which realistically the the only option available for adjustable replacement dampers for MK7 at the moment. It offers front and rear rebound adjustment. The front adjusted with the normal Koni top rod external adjustment. But the rear, unlike Koni's offering for Focus ST, uses this style of adjustment:
This essentially means, you have to remove the shock, compress it, adjust then reinstall everytime you want to change damper setting in the rear. Realistically this makes it quite difficult to use and negates the benefit of having an adjustable damper. I was all set in my mind to go with the Koni Sport until I learned of this. Having to deal with the roads here I feel like in a Daily Driver driving around on your autoX setup most of the time might be quite jarring. Not to mention a knob that you are not likely to turn might as well be not a knob at all.
I am somewhat stumped though as to what other options do I have. Alternative typically to Koni Sport is Bilstein HD(B6) dampers, which are fixed valving, non-adjustable. You can get them revalved by any number of people to be "custom valved" to your car, but because of the long turn around time and cost involved if you don't get it right you could be looking at a lot of back and forth. The fact that they are also not adjustable gives me pause the same way. I have heard though that in some cases you can convert HD to adjustable, especially for the shock(as opposed to strut) arrangement. Unfortunately I do not know who would offer such service. Other alternative I am thinking of is perhaps going with the rear shock out of something like a PSS12/14 kit. Since the rear spring/damper are seperate, the spring/adjustable spring perch is not part of the damper unit and the damper it self is damping adjustable. However I am unclear as to if it will fit in the stock spring configuration(extended length, collapse length, etc). And if the valving itself will be any good to use with stock spring, and potentially with a different brand of front shock(since you can't use PSS12/14's front, coilover, strut). My front solution will most likely be Koni Sport but with double adjustable conversion which adds compression adjustment.
Granted most of this may be moot, it might well turn out that I never touch any of the knobs. But if my plan is to go with adjustable dampers, what options do I have? Especially without going all out $$$ option by somehow modifying Penske/JRZ or something to work with stock spring.
Hoping someone like Sam will be able to chime in with some of his past experience on other platform.
From Saturday...this is an atypical autoX site, its basically the perimeter/access roads of a drag strip...
The run that ended up counting(77.1xx +1)
Faster raw time(with bonus mis-shift at the beginning, 76.1+2)
Being in the 30-40F I didn't even bother to bring Bridgestones, running on Michelin PSS on my DD wheels. Ended up 2nd in GS and 5th on raw time and pax time. Without cones both run would've been 3rd on raw and pax.
Finally some real discussion about the GTI as an autocross platform in the same way that the S2k and FoST have. Unfortunately, I'm still driving MK6 but have had a very successful season in the car (GS) this year. Hopefully I can still participate here as in the end the models are not THAT different and we all have more or less the same limitations.
I run in the Snake River Region SCCA. We don't have a big GS class but it is very competitive with a few FoST and me. One of our GS drivers took 10th this year at Nats and many of us run at Packwood, too.
Fwiw, I run 245/40 Re71r on 17 inch wheels, Koni sports, Eibach rear sway set firm, stock exhaust and Hawk pads. 2dr mt.
Last edited by Eightstrings; 12-18-2015 at 12:11 AM.
I'm having my new 16 gti S manual with Perf Pack delivered tomorrow. I've been auto-x ing for 15 years ( I should be better) I'm coming from an s2000 after 7 years. I look forward to trying fwd again (time for something different). I look forward to joining this discussion and help in developing this car.
Next weekend will be my second SSCA autocross event in my GTI. Running RE71R on 18 x 7.5 wheels with virtual stock offset. No modifications otherwise.
Did some AutoX sessions ten years ago in a Saab turbo but have not competed since.
In January event car performed great but it was a bit wet though. 1st place in GS was another GTI by .004 over a FoST. Then me, followed by a Fiat and a couple other FoSts.
I was told the FoST was the car to beat, so I am excited that we had a nice GTI showing.
Enjoying reading this thread and hearing about what is working for other folks.
Hey there, thanks for shedding a lot of light on this. I was wondering if you think it would be necessary for a new oil pan when auto-xing? Or if I have enough oil in there, it shouldn't be an issue? Someone mentioned to me about throwing a rod and wondered if the back and forth turns could cause an issue.
Betty - 2015 VW GTI Autobahn DBP - work in progress - 40% Tint all around
So, this question is likely directed to Sam Strano or John A. How much lifting of the inside rear is too much? Also, it seems that some of it may be relative to tire pressures in the fronts?
I run a bar that is not that much stiffer than stock (eibach 24mm stiff setting) and while it has definitely improved my times and gotten the car to be more neutral, I have a lot of lifting at the inside rear with hard cornering. Sometimes up to a couple of inches.
I know Sam advocates a softer bar than some, at least for the FoST and I'm wondering if I should try a softer setting or higher tire oressure in the fronts. (Higher tp can act like stiffer springs if not outside of the ballpark for good performance). I typically run 36-38f/37-40r for most events. I've tried flipping that around but I don't rotate as well.
All that said, I had a very successful season on my current setup, but am always looking for that extra .01 of a second!
Technically I think the car can lift inside rear on stock bar, especially after you are running the stickier tire. The bigger the bar the more often it happens, once the tire comes off the rear bar has done all it can do. Its just a matter of how much its doing before that happens. I think running a really big bar(as I am doing now) runs the risk of the maybe grossly shifting the weight around and ultimately upsetting the car too much instead of just shifting the balance. Personally I'd be curious this year to see what changes going to softer bar would do. I am also curious if running adjustable damper might allow the bigger bar be more controlled.
It's by no means his primary autoX car.