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    1. Junior Member
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      01-12-2016 11:25 AM #251
      Quote Originally Posted by saron81 View Post
      Hats off to you sir!
      Thanks for your comment and also thanks to Barry to publish one of the latest model's picture. What Barry did not wrote: he provided about 80 technical drawings from that Mark II, which was and still is a great help.
      I'm not a follower of all the forums on earth, but I felt obliged to com here, adding my first comment.
      I aslo like the way this Mark II (the real one) is partially restored. I had much longuer to do my cars scale 1:1: I had such able friend and I had to spread the expenses!

    2. Member snsr's Avatar
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      01-12-2016 02:52 PM #252
      Quote Originally Posted by Roger Z View Post
      Thanks for your comment and also thanks to Barry to publish one of the latest model's picture. What Barry did not wrote: he provided about 80 technical drawings from that Mark II, which was and still is a great help.
      I'm not a follower of all the forums on earth, but I felt obliged to com here, adding my first comment.
      I aslo like the way this Mark II (the real one) is partially restored. I had much longuer to do my cars scale 1:1: I had such able friend and I had to spread the expenses!
      Amazing work on your cars (of all scales), thank you for sharing. And thank you Barry again for documenting your and Dave's meticulous work The historical context in this thread has been particularly interesting.

    3. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-12-2016 05:26 PM #253
      Quote Originally Posted by snsr View Post
      Amazing work on your cars (of all scales), thank you for sharing. And thank you Barry again for documenting your and Dave's meticulous work The historical context in this thread has been particularly interesting.

    4. Member DerSpiegel's Avatar
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      01-12-2016 06:40 PM #254
      Quote Originally Posted by barry2952 View Post
      Visited a friend's collection in a 20-car garage, under his house! That was always my dream.




      This ride ^^^ is Dr. Thompson approved.


    5. Member
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      01-12-2016 07:13 PM #255
      Quote Originally Posted by DerSpiegel View Post
      This ride ^^^ is Dr. Thompson approved.

      That Eldo appears to be one of the "200 final run" "Bicentennial" Eldo convertibles. Most went to GM employees and dealers. When I was a supplier to GM I had heard most employees/execs that ordered these cars were smart enough to have the factory include an extra OEM carpet kit and some even got spare tops.

    6. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-12-2016 09:26 PM #256
      In preparation for painting the firewall we decided to remove the deteriorated hood liner.



      Quickly realized that the hood was in the way of painting properly and reinstalling the engine. I had always heard that the hood was so enormously heavy it took 4 people to remove it. What a load of crap that is. We easily hoisted it up onto 2" thick blocks of styrofoam and stashed the hood on the roof. This gives us unfettered access.



      I had Dave zinc plate the bearing housing and related center bearing carrier and put the driveshaft together.

      I had marked of the halves with marks to locate them to each other, but I failed to mark the yolk/spline. Fortunately I took enough pictures to see the correct orientation. It could have gone in 180° out and might have created a wear pattern or balance problem.

      I had to duplicate the original wiper/seal which was originally made of leather. Fortunately, I had some proper leather left from making mud flaps for the Ruxton.



      I removed the bumper brackets to blast and powder-coat. The back side of the bumper is in nice shape. The chrome is in pretty good shape. Some of the scratches will buff out.



      I don't know how far Dave will get on prepping the firewall. I believe he's going to pull the hinges off so I can blast and refinish them. They get painted body color. Speaking of body color the new tires are on the way and the old tires need to be removed so I can blast and paint the wheels to watch the car. All Mark IIs had body-color wheels.

      I've gone as far as I can on the exhaust until the engine goes in. I have everything lined up so I could determine how long the rubber mounts needed to be. The old rectangular mounts had stretched to nearly double the original length. I cut some oval shapes to better allow for adjustment. The new material was just slightly thinner than the original so I sandwiched two pieces of rubber where there was one before. It will supply nearly the same damping while nearly doubling the resistance to stretching.



      I think the engine will be back in by the end of the week. This has been a lot of fun. Dave did all the dirty work and I get to put another car back together I didn't take apart.

    7. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-14-2016 01:18 PM #257
      Jim has asked me to install air conditioning in his car, but that would be a major engineering undertaking as there's no space for it under the dash, nor room for it within the dash. They didn't allow for space for HVAC as the air-conditioning is a packaged unit in the trunk and the heating is all under the hood. Without the distribution system used on the ceilings of the air conditioned Mark IIs you'd have to use the ridiculous-looking outlet horns on the rear package shelf.

      I believe part of the problem he was experiencing is heat getting through the firewall and up through the exhaust under the door sills. I have a special bubble-plastic with a foil face we'll use on the fire-wall and Dynamat the whole floor. Due to the lack of a working vacuum system hot water was flowing through the two large heater cores full time and heat constantly blew into the cabin. With vacuum working the valves properly and two high-volume blowers I believe we can make this comfortable to drive. I've asked Jim if we can hold off on a/c until he drives it for a summer. The exhaust socks installed under the sills and a working HVAC just might make it more livable.

      We knew we'd be discarding all the factory deadening as it was just thick tarpaper. The interior was in the way of every next step so I started dismantling the interior. The front seat comes out in 4 pieces as it is incredibly heavy. This allowed me to have easy access to the body mount bolts. The body has shifted off-center. Many of the mounts had hand-cut rubber washers, further proof that the body had been taken off the chassis before.



      Everything was in the way.



      Everything had to be removed for two reasons. The windshield wiper system use cabling to link the wiper blades in coordination. It is a seemingly over-complicated system that can't be worked on unless exposed. I made the mistake of removing the two screws on the casting not knowing that the pulley on the other side controlled everything. Removing that part cause the cabling to drop off with no idea how it went back on. I need to restore this part and Dave needs to paint under it so the cabling has been photographed for reference. Note the condition of the rubber grommets. They're all shriveled up like that. They're soft and crumbly. Usually they are as hard as a rock.



      You can see why you don't want to just take the pulley out. :banged:



      The entire engine compartment wiring harness can be disconnected at these junctions. That will make it easier to paint the firewall, inspect and re-tape.



      No evidence of current activity, but this was a critter hotel, for a while. Not unusual. My convertible top was turned into mouse hostel. All traces have been removed.



      After an hour we had remove all the bits and carpet. We'd make a good chop shop.





      That's when we discovered that water coming in the quarter window wasn't going down the dirt-plugged drain, but ended up in the passenger-side footwell. This is officially the only rust on the car. I'll simply cut out the whole piece, send it off to Josh Highly and have it duplicated with an offset welding flange added to the piece. That will give me the chance to use my one-side spot-welder that has two electrodes that you put side-by-side instead of on opposite sides of the metal. You don't get the penetration but you get an inch-long weld. If you weld next to a temporary rivet or screw or a Cleco you get the best results.



      In preparation for removing the body with the lift I've put the tires on it. It rolls effortlessly. Must have done something right. I think what I'm going to do is lower the chassis and body onto jack stands under the front floor pans and the trunk floor. At the jack stand's full extension that should allow me to push up in the body while dropping the chassis separating them by about 6". I would insert 2 strong 4 x 4 between the body and chassis and set the body back down. I'd roll the whole thing forward to get the hoist centered on the body and use the lift to raise the body on the 4 x 4s instead of pushing up on sheet metal. These cross-braces will have strategic supports to aid weight distribution.

      Once it's in the air we can roll the chassis out from under the body, take it outside to clean off the top of the chassis and the previously hidden underbody spots and make this a total chassis restoration. The only thing we had to separate was the supports for the emergency brake cables. I think it would be an opportune time to install the engine while the body's off.

      The new tires arrived today. Once the body is mated again the tires can come off the wheels and they can be blasted and painted body color. That's the way they came from the factory. We'll have to find one new wheel as the spare is a stock wheel and won't fit on the front of the car with radials. The cross-section is so wide on a suitable-size tire that the inner wall can rub on the edge of the upper ball joint.

    8. Senior Member
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      01-14-2016 04:50 PM #258
      "Engine compartment freshening"

      Time for a moderator to edit the title a bit, wouldn't you agree Barry?

      But seriously, it's much like working on an old house...you think you're just going to go exterior paint, then you find some rotted sills, then the windows have to go, then while you're in there you might as well insulate the walls...

      (This is why my next house will be new construction.)

    9. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-14-2016 05:01 PM #259
      My projects kinda go that way. It's a good thing that this happens though. Scotty called me Monday to tell me that the Ruxton fired right up and he took it for a 20 mile ride. No water in the oil, no oil on the ground, it starts, it goes and it stops reliably. What more could you ask of an old car? I'm thrilled that he wants to use the car and not just leave it on a pedestal. he said it drives, shifts and rides like a truck, but he grins from ear to ear as he navigates around corners.

      There's a Ruxton coming up for auction. I'm curious to see what it goes for.

    10. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-14-2016 10:13 PM #260
      I needed to get the body about 8" above the chassis to clean it and install new mounts. I strategically placed 3 5-gallon pails under each front foot well and one under the tub that carries the spare tire in the trunk. I simply lowered the car until the body rose high enough to work on it.



      Everything that passed through the firewall has now been removed in preparation for paint.



      About half of the soft body mounts had been replaced with rock-hard reinforced rubber. This is further proof that this car has been apart before.



      By using the wrong mounts they had to squash everything so tight that there was no isolation between the chassis and the body. Every road harshness and engine vibration was passed to the passenger compartment.

      The square block is an old replacement. The smashed doughnut is a proper, but way over-compressed original. The circle in the center is the exact replacement for the original.



      The spacer under the bolt was missing from half the mounting bolts. They are exactly 1" long. They are designed to act as a stop on compressing the bushings. With half of them missing the body was twisted on the frame as there was nothing to stop the compression of the rubber. This might account for ill-fitting doors. We're going to put it back together the way it was built in the factory. This is a test fit of one of the new bushings.



      I think I am officially tiring of sand-blasting. These are the body mounting washers. There are 16 bolts and rubber washers not pictured.



      Dave showed up just in time to tell me not to cut the floor pan until the body was secured back to the frame. I took his advice.



      The next step is to finish the priming and painting of the firewall. We'll take advantage of the body being raised and install the engine and trans. They were always installed on the rolling chassis before the body was installed. The massive weight of the engine changes the shape of the chassis and configuration of the suspension. We want that to happen before installing the body mounts and shims.

      I'm taking the door panels off tomorrow so we can make some window repairs. We have a new piece of glass for the driver's side, but the motors and mechanisms all need to be thoroughly cleaned and new grease installed. Grease from that era turns to hard clumps that impede movement. Slow movement causes motors to work too hard and burn up. We're going to get everything gliding like new. I use grease from the Makita tool rebuilder. It's meant for used in their battery powered tools and is designed to operate in cold temperatures.

    11. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 08:24 AM #261
      This is the reason we took it apart in the first place. Ready for some light sanding and paint. Likely Saturday.


    12. Senior Member
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      01-15-2016 02:25 PM #262
      Once again, wow.

      The owner simply is not going to recognize this car as his once he sees it reassembled and drives it.

    13. Member 16volt's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 03:30 PM #263
      Barry, would do a light freshening on my E24?
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    14. Member WRXGuy's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 03:42 PM #264
      Barry -- you'd mentioned that the factory AC system was trunk mounted, but used a roof-mounted distribution system - do you have any pictures of it by chance? I've seen the older systems that exhaust their chilled air through the rear deck, but not something roof-based.

    15. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 03:49 PM #265
      I will try and dig one up. They have fiberglass ducts the come from the trunk, concealed by the sail panel and run across the ceiling on both sides with amiable outlets, like an airplane. I don't think there was any other kind of a/c available back then. They were all trunk units, but most has horns on the rear deck lid to direct the air.

    16. Member Oval Baja's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 04:04 PM #266
      That floor rust looks like an ideal subject for spray welding.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV-QPTpJaYo

      bringbackmst3k.com

    17. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 04:11 PM #267
      Ummmm....no thanks. That doesn't fix the underlying problem. That's just metal Bondo. Staying fixed is a big part of what I try to do.

    18. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 04:25 PM #268
      Here's a picture of one of 4 a/c outlets.


    19. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 05:05 PM #269
      Quote Originally Posted by 16volt View Post
      Barry, would do a light freshening on my E24?
      Apparently, there's no such thing around here.

      If you look up the word "overspray" you will see this picture. It's a pretty bad example. It's front and center on the firewall. It was installed after the body was painted. It originally had a bright finish as it's cast zinc, not your typical pot-metal casting. The bar in the center is turned by the vacuum motor, rotating nearly 180° with a full sweep. The shaft it's attached to is knurled and forced into the cable pulley behind it so I didn't separate them. The bronze bearing flushed out nicely and rotates like it's new.



      After a thorough cleaning there remained 60 years of oxidation. Patina is nice, but new looks better. It will dull over time. Since it's zinc and I do zinc plating I figured that the acid I use might have an effect on the casting. It quickly ate away at the years of build up and revealed shiny metal below. In fact, the cleaned portion matches the original finish in the circle of the dark end. That's where the wiper motor has been mounted for 60 years.



      It'll look real nice on fresh paint.



      I made the rest of the required spacers. The ID fit the bolt perfectly, but the OD was smaller than the original. They will function just fine with thinner metal as they only act as a stop so you don't squish the body mount too much. With the proper shimming they will all have the same compression rate allowing for damping. The way it was there was no planned flex between body and frame.



      The paint is the turning point. Everything goes back together now. There's a ton of refinishing and fitting to do, but sliding the engine in and dropping the body back on the frame are two monumental steps forward.

      I wish Jim would post here, but he's told me he's very pleased with our work. He has another car in restoration elsewhere that's been away for a year and just the body work is done. He was a tad shocked at the speed of our progress. I wish Dave could be here every day, but he had other demands for his talents. I feel fortunate to have him 3-4 days a week.

    20. Member 16volt's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 06:03 PM #270
      Quote Originally Posted by barry2952 View Post
      Apparently, there's no such thing around here.
      Great, I will ship it out. Just change the oil and completely rebuild the engine while youre in there.
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    21. Member mike in SC's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 08:44 PM #271
      I'm pleased to see the finer parts of the Mark II. Even the function of the wipers and the piping of the exhaust are just so cool.
      Thanks


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      (sheriff)Early, I though you said this was a drug possum.
      (Early) Sure, I drug him from the ditch.
      (sheriff) I wish you told me that before you sold him to me.

    22. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-15-2016 09:10 PM #272
      Quote Originally Posted by mike in SC View Post
      I'm pleased to see the finer parts of the Mark II. Even the function of the wipers and the piping of the exhaust are just so cool.
      Thanks


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      It's an extremely well-engineered car. It's often rumored that the Mark II was designed by Gordon Beuhrig. While it is true he was involved in the project he came in as Body Engineer after the design was etched in stone. He was responsible for taking the design and making it build-able. He's responsible for the smallest "A" pillar I've ever seen. He was responsible for the scale resin models that they used for in-house demonstrations. He touched everything on this car and had a hand in its final shape.

      It's handy having the Benson Ford Research Center so close.


    23. Junior Member
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      01-16-2016 03:59 AM #273
      Barry, you had planed to take the chassis away from the body to clean the upper part of it and the hidden part of the floor. Apparently, you cancelled this project.

    24. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      01-16-2016 04:05 AM #274
      We found only a layer of dirt with good paint underneath so the frame just got wiped down. There's about 10" between the frame and body right now.

    25. Junior Member
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      01-16-2016 04:13 AM #275
      Quote Originally Posted by barry2952 View Post
      We found only a layer of dirt with good paint underneath so the frame just got wiped down. There's about 10" between the frame and body right now.
      Thanks for the explanation. Now, you may answer this question: is the coating on the floor sprayed before the body was put on the frame or after? If it was done before, the coating must be uniform; if it was done after, there will be no coating above the frame. Sorry for this bad explanation; my English is sometimes limited...

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