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    1. 02-13-2017 02:57 PM #1
      So I've been using Zaino Z2 for years and understand that it's not the best stuff I could be using now. I have two boys under the age of 4 right now, so I'm at a stage in life where my vehicles are far more neglected than I'd like.

      For the past couple of years I've only had time to apply sealant once or twice a year (which I know isn't often enough), and I've cut the process down to an old-school wash/"wax" process skipping things like claybarring and polishing.

      Since I had very little Z2 left after the last time I applied it I figured I'd find out what my options are before just reordering the same stuff I've been using for over a decade.

      Thanks in advance for any help.

    2. Member derekjl's Avatar
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      02-15-2017 02:31 AM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by Chico View Post
      So I've been using Zaino Z2 for years and understand that it's not the best stuff I could be using now. I have two boys under the age of 4 right now, so I'm at a stage in life where my vehicles are far more neglected than I'd like.

      For the past couple of years I've only had time to apply sealant once or twice a year (which I know isn't often enough), and I've cut the process down to an old-school wash/"wax" process skipping things like claybarring and polishing.

      Since I had very little Z2 left after the last time I applied it I figured I'd find out what my options are before just reordering the same stuff I've been using for over a decade.

      Thanks in advance for any help.
      Actually, in my opinion applying a sealant every 4-6 months is plenty. At the very least I would clay bar every other time you apply the sealant. If you don't, eventually you're going to put the sealant on a dirty surface and it will not last at all. The past fall (pre-winter detail) I did a wash/clay/polish/seal like I do before every winter. I tried Chemical Guys Jet Seal for the first time and was very impressed. It definitely adds gloss and depth to the paint and it lasts a LONG time. Water and snow still bead and sheet off of the car and this is almost 6 months later. They claim it can last a year. Yes it is expensive but a bottle should last you at least a couple years or more if you only apply every 4-6 months. Just my 2 cents. I will also recommend Meguiar's #20 and #21. Not as good as the Chemical Guys, but about 1/2 the price.
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    3. 02-16-2017 11:02 AM #3
      Thanks for the suggestion of JetSeal. In looking at reviews of it, it looks like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 has a little better durability. So I'm going to try out the Wolfgang, but I likely wouldn't have found it without your suggestion.

    4. 02-17-2017 08:42 AM #4
      I love the ease of Optiseal.
      It looks great, takes no time and is very cost effective.
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    5. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      02-19-2017 07:00 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Chico View Post
      So I've been using Zaino Z2 for years and understand that it's not the best stuff I could be using now. I have two boys under the age of 4 right now, so I'm at a stage in life where my vehicles are far more neglected than I'd like.

      For the past couple of years I've only had time to apply sealant once or twice a year (which I know isn't often enough), and I've cut the process down to an old-school wash/"wax" process skipping things like claybarring and polishing.

      Since I had very little Z2 left after the last time I applied it I figured I'd find out what my options are before just reordering the same stuff I've been using for over a decade.

      Thanks in advance for any help.

      Congrats on the little ones and the shift in priorities. It happens to most of us and is just part of life. Can't keep all our hobbies all the time if we want to get any valuable sleep time.

      Product wise, I read where you're looking at WDGPS 3.0 and that's a great choice! It's a great last step product.

      I know you're pressed for time, but I would highly suggest you add a couple steps to the process though. They do make a world of difference.

      Wash - of course
      CarPro Iron X spray/rinse decontamination. You'll find it does a great job removing the ferrous particles that have embedded themselves into your paint.
      Clay/Nano Sponge - I prefer the new nano sponges / clay alternatives, of which there are many. They are safer, cause less marring to near none if done right and helps you speed through the processes.

      The above two will insure you're surface is 100% slick/smooth and contaminant free.

      Now, the other step that I would highly suggest before you apply WDGPS 3.0 is to at least hit the surface with a good polish. You need to remove the road film and restore the gloss a bit. Not a full or even partial correction mind you but at least to remove the embedded grime and stuff that is present. This is a step you will do with a dual action buffer and a handful of pads. Of course if you don't have this gear or want to do it, then disregard. I do highly recommend at least that as it will make a difference.

      Top with WDGPS 3.0 and enjoy!

      Good luck and post up some pics regardless of what route you go.
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    6. 02-20-2017 01:47 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by pdqgp View Post
      Congrats on the little ones and the shift in priorities. It happens to most of us and is just part of life. Can't keep all our hobbies all the time if we want to get any valuable sleep time.

      Product wise, I read where you're looking at WDGPS 3.0 and that's a great choice! It's a great last step product.

      I know you're pressed for time, but I would highly suggest you add a couple steps to the process though. They do make a world of difference.

      Wash - of course
      CarPro Iron X spray/rinse decontamination. You'll find it does a great job removing the ferrous particles that have embedded themselves into your paint.
      Clay/Nano Sponge - I prefer the new nano sponges / clay alternatives, of which there are many. They are safer, cause less marring to near none if done right and helps you speed through the processes.

      The above two will insure you're surface is 100% slick/smooth and contaminant free.

      Now, the other step that I would highly suggest before you apply WDGPS 3.0 is to at least hit the surface with a good polish. You need to remove the road film and restore the gloss a bit. Not a full or even partial correction mind you but at least to remove the embedded grime and stuff that is present. This is a step you will do with a dual action buffer and a handful of pads. Of course if you don't have this gear or want to do it, then disregard. I do highly recommend at least that as it will make a difference.

      Top with WDGPS 3.0 and enjoy!

      Good luck and post up some pics regardless of what route you go.
      Thanks for the added input. I've claybarred before, but I've never heard of CarPro Iron X. What does it do that claying along doesn't? Is the point just to remove ferrous particles to minimize marring during the clay process?

      I've done some polishing before, but mostly for paint correction to remove swirl marks (I've got a PC orbital). I was never terribly satisfied with the results, so I think my technique is not so great. I'm also a perfectionist and as a result work more slowly than most and when I've done a full wash, clay, polish, seal (plus interior, etc.) it's taken me 2 days to detail a car. I just don't have that kind of time (and if I'm honest, desire) anymore.

      If I remember to get the "before" pics I'll post some before and after. I'll be starting with our Honda Odyssey, so it will be the least exciting vehicle I've ever detailed. I guess that's part of daddin' though.

    7. 02-27-2017 01:06 PM #7
      What is wrong with the Z2?

      As far as creme sealants, there is little difference between ANY. One coat of Z2 will perform as good as one coat of any sealant, regardless of clay or iron-x. And there is no need for 10 coats of Z2.

      If I were looking to spend less time on the vehicle, with nothing else changing, I would use a spray sealant. Opti-Seal is great, so is Reload, Meg's Ultimate SPray Wax. Similar to creme sealants, spray sealants, most are about the same. Reload is a bit different, but even some over-the-counter stuff will work fine.

      If I were looking for even less time spent on car, then simply no sealant. Get a car wash with some "wax" in it, wash the car whenever, and call it a day. There is no need for wax or sealants on modern paint. It just helps the looks and the easiness to wash next time. But paint will not fade, peel, crack, or degrade from a lack of sealant.

      On my Jetta, drive through car washes. Zero cares. Aquapel twice a year and 1Z Cockpit Premium + vacuum the interior every season more or less. Klasse AIO inside windows once a year. No stress. On my truck, it gets washed when it gets an oil change at the dealer.

      My M3, though, no holds barred, washed and "waxed" before each drive.

    8. Member sicklyscott's Avatar
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      02-27-2017 03:42 PM #8
      My go-to sealant is Power Lock. It goes on quickly and easily and lasts a long time.
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    9. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 12:08 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by Chico View Post
      Thanks for the added input. I've claybarred before, but I've never heard of CarPro Iron X. What does it do that claying along doesn't? Is the point just to remove ferrous particles to minimize marring during the clay process?
      it dissolves the contaminants below the surface where clay be not fully remove them. Yes, between clay and Iron-X the idea is to remove contaminants before the surface is hit with a buffer.

      I've done some polishing before, but mostly for paint correction to remove swirl marks (I've got a PC orbital). I was never terribly satisfied with the results, so I think my technique is not so great. I'm also a perfectionist and as a result work more slowly than most and when I've done a full wash, clay, polish, seal (plus interior, etc.) it's taken me 2 days to detail a car. I just don't have that kind of time (and if I'm honest, desire) anymore.
      It's likely a combination of things. Product, pads and yes technique. The key with entry level buffers like the PC is that are not forced-rotation units nor do they have a lot of power thus on anything but a fully flat surface, they may slow to a stall and not spin. If it's not spinning, you're not correcting.

      If I remember to get the "before" pics I'll post some before and after. I'll be starting with our Honda Odyssey, so it will be the least exciting vehicle I've ever detailed. I guess that's part of daddin' though.
      Good news is their paint is relatively soft and easy to correct.
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      03-02-2017 12:17 AM #10
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      05-16-2017 11:01 AM #11
      Hey, what Orbital polisher do you recommend for a first timer like myself? my budget is around $200 for the entire kit. there's like 5 options on amazon and not sure which one to get.
      there's the Torq and also chemical guys but they use the Porter cable polisher which i heard is just ok.

      cheers

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      05-16-2017 04:29 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by zactastic View Post
      Hey, what Orbital polisher do you recommend for a first timer like myself? my budget is around $200 for the entire kit. there's like 5 options on amazon and not sure which one to get.
      there's the Torq and also chemical guys but they use the Porter cable polisher which i heard is just ok.

      cheers
      I bought a 6" Griot's random orbital a few years ago. I see they are $138.00 on Amazon Prime right now. I'd go the same route if I was looking today. It's simple and easy to use. I have not used any other brands though so I can't say if it's better or worse.

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      05-16-2017 09:46 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by bnkrpt311 View Post
      I bought a 6" Griot's random orbital a few years ago. I see they are $138.00 on Amazon Prime right now. I'd go the same route if I was looking today. It's simple and easy to use. I have not used any other brands though so I can't say if it's better or worse.
      thanks. have you use it on your toyota. my wifes black 2001 jetta has the hood, roof and truck looking almost matte instead of shiny.

    14. 05-17-2017 10:59 AM #14
      I'm of the opinion it matters far less what you use, it only matters that you do use them properly and in a timely manner.
      I usually just stick to Mothers/Meguiars/whatever is cheapest, lots of microfiber to always have a clean towel on hand, and two buckets.

      Every month I'd do a two bucket wash with quick wax, cleaner wax every 3 months, and full detail once a year (iron X, clay bar, polish, wax)
      The regular waxing makes it harder for contaminants to stick to the paint. Do it often, do it right.

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      05-17-2017 01:34 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by zactastic View Post
      thanks. have you use it on your toyota. my wifes black 2001 jetta has the hood, roof and truck looking almost matte instead of shiny.
      I have not. It's sitting in an unpacked box from our recent move. I did just order some stuff from Chemical Guys so maybe this weekend I can give it a shot on the worn out Camry.

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      05-17-2017 10:52 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by squelchy451 View Post
      I'm of the opinion it matters far less what you use, it only matters that you do use them properly and in a timely manner.
      I usually just stick to Mothers/Meguiars/whatever is cheapest, lots of microfiber to always have a clean towel on hand, and two buckets.

      Every month I'd do a two bucket wash with quick wax, cleaner wax every 3 months, and full detail once a year (iron X, clay bar, polish, wax)
      The regular waxing makes it harder for contaminants to stick to the paint. Do it often, do it right.
      grit gaurds in your buckets? like this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVAxphcgKnY

      i see there's a three bucket method video and also how a two bucket method is a failure. lol

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