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    1. Member
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      03-20-2017 04:16 PM #26
      You got lucky if you were able to cut all the sealant with a putty knife. I've had cars with so much sealant I couldn't easily get at the bolts on the a-pillar even knowing where they were.

      Another problem is sometimes there's so much sealant under the front lip of the fender that you can't reach it all (I've seen it an inch thick), and forcing the fender at all will bend it. In that case I could only think of one thing and it worked:

      Torch the sealant until it lights on fire and wait for it to burn up . After the fender was off, abundant cleanup to remove the evidence...

      You can choose to leave the fender if you live in Arizona and/or you're confident you have a rust free mk1.
      Work: it works, ibtches.

    2. Member sciroccohal's Avatar
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      03-20-2017 05:25 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by DiezNutz View Post
      surgical precision.
      Getting the fenders free is like 1/2 hour to 45mins each.....What do you charge by the hour? (Doc Chassin)...of course you DO! LOL. ME, I'm lazy! lol

      The trick is to take out all the bolts.....then with a massive Milwaukee Heat Gun warm up the A pillar lower...really warm and free that first, then do the same with the 'eyebrow' area over the turn signal light and the lower 'chin'....get it nice and warm so's you have to use gloves.

      Should pop off.

      It the mastic that's a pain!
      The feeling of immortality extends right up until the moment of impact.
      I cannot teach you how to be a Zen mechanic, grasshopper.
      The VW Scirocco, the worlds fastest ECONOMY car.
      I drive a 36 year old YORK with a Scirocco attached.

    3. 03-20-2017 06:38 PM #28
      I like a 1500-watt heat gun and putty knives to soften up and remove seam sealer.
      You can try cutting through it cold, but it's unnecessary hard labor.

      I used to torch it but it creates a lot of black smoke and nasty fumes that I don't think are all that healthy to be breathing.
      Not to mention the potential fire hazard and metal warpage if things get carried away.

      Some doctors may advise differently
      Last edited by DiezNutz; 03-20-2017 at 06:42 PM.
      no one cares what you think in real life...
      how do you figure the internet makes it any better.

    4. Member
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      03-20-2017 08:11 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by echassin View Post
      You got lucky if you were able to cut all the sealant with a putty knife. I've had cars with so much sealant I couldn't easily get at the bolts on the a-pillar even knowing where they were.

      Another problem is sometimes there's so much sealant under the front lip of the fender that you can't reach it all (I've seen it an inch thick), and forcing the fender at all will bend it. In that case I could only think of one thing and it worked:

      Torch the sealant until it lights on fire and wait for it to burn up . After the fender was off, abundant cleanup to remove the evidence.....

      ^^ This. I got all the bolts out and there was so much sealant I was afraid of causing more damage removing the fender than the rust that was already there. I didn't try a torch though.

    5. Junior Member PtboScirocco's Avatar
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      03-20-2017 09:54 PM #30
      Saw a show on youtube that used dry ice to remove it. Speed Academy I believe. Worked like a charm, came off in huge frozen chunks.

    6. Member
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      03-20-2017 10:24 PM #31
      Thank God since it was a Florida car all its life it seems that there is very little rust and removing the fenders is not going to be required. Should have some stripped down shots later in the week. Still holding onto Cincy with a Scirocco not a Mini Cooper although it is a blast to drive.

    7. Member scotttu's Avatar
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      03-25-2017 09:43 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Thank God since it was a Florida car all its life it seems that there is very little rust and removing the fenders is not going to be required. Should have some stripped down shots later in the week. Still holding onto Cincy with a Scirocco not a Mini Cooper although it is a blast to drive.
      You could loosen the bottom bolt behind the wheel, maybe pillar bolts, run a mirror up inside to see if there is any rust.
      This was the worst of the worst, save for the hatch area on my car.

      If one's words are not better than silence, one should keep silent.
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    8. Member
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      03-25-2017 09:06 PM #33
      Looking for some advice on whether I should clean up my original engine while out of the car or upgrade to a 1.8T while I am at it. This car when I got it 3 years ago already had a replacement 1.8 out of a 92 Jetta. Would love more power in the Scirocco as it seems they had more power in my memories of my first one back in the mid 80's than they really have. My mechanic friend is recommending I look for a donor beetle as these are easy swaps. If anyone who has done this could comment on whether it went well and how much difference in power it made it would certainly help me decide

    9. 03-25-2017 11:11 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Looking for some advice on whether I should clean up my original engine while out of the car or upgrade to a 1.8T while I am at it. This car when I got it 3 years ago already had a replacement 1.8 out of a 92 Jetta. Would love more power in the Scirocco as it seems they had more power in my memories of my first one back in the mid 80's than they really have. My mechanic friend is recommending I look for a donor beetle as these are easy swaps. If anyone who has done this could comment on whether it went well and how much difference in power it made it would certainly help me decide
      I really should have bet money that you wouldn't be done by Cincy. [Assuming I could find any takers, that is. ]

      I guess like most things, 'easy' is relative depending on one's capabilities and available resources.
      I would hardly call a 1.8T a "bolt-in", although there are more enterprising solutions available now than there used to be - look up our friend Tech53.

      Vortex abounds with 1.8T -> Mk1 swap threads, so I'll be the first to wipe the crust out of your eyes, stick a lollipop in your hand, and briskly broom you in the general direction of the Search feature.

      no one cares what you think in real life...
      how do you figure the internet makes it any better.

    10. Member ydrogs's Avatar
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      03-27-2017 03:52 PM #35
      Also these guys http://s-pautomotive.com/?product=wi...rness-services provide plug and play wiring harnesses to quicken the swap which is what I have seen is the hardest part and where most swaps fail

      I have not seen or used their products so I have no first hand info about them though.
      Gordy S

    11. Member fredybender's Avatar
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      03-27-2017 09:49 PM #36
      Alan at S&P is a really nice guy, he also stocks our swap mounts now.
      Either us , or them, can give you a drop in / bolt on solution.
      Early W/C NLA and performance parts: www.tech-53.com

    12. Member Eistreiber's Avatar
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      03-27-2017 10:59 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by DiezNutz View Post
      I would hardly call a 1.8T a "bolt-in"...
      WRONG. Of course it's a "bolt-in", that's the whole point. Same basic block, mounts, and mounting points; ergo ipso facto "bolt-in".

      Then again, it might be nice if that lovely engine ran, which is a different deal...

      Quote Originally Posted by DiezNutz View Post
      Vortex abounds with 1.8T -> Mk1 swap threads, so I'll be the first to wipe the crust out of your eyes, stick a lollipop in your hand, and briskly broom you in the general direction of the Search feature.
      So... for designated V-tex curmudgeon(s), there's been me and Hal, a bunch of also-rans, and now you.


      @OP; yep it'll fit. But you really really want to research first. The swap isn't as simple as just bolting in a drive-train, and the associated and necessary upgrades to brakes, drive line, suspension and so on will cost as much or more than the the mere engine swap by itself; and if you swap without upgrading the car to support it, that's just criminal. Not to be rude, but are you qualified to drive that much power-to-weight ration on a public road? If you've done some Auto-X or SCCA stuff, cool. But a Public road is NOT a race track, right?

      A decent 8v Scir in good repair is "fun". Why don't you try starting with that, then see if you really want to gain (much) more power? By then you'll know more of what else needs doing along the way.

      If you want the quickest way to the fastest ride, strap a JATO rocket under a little red wagon, get in and have a 'friend' light it. That's a good candidate for the 2017 Triple-crown; Darwin Award, public art for the splot you leave on whatever stops you, and Most YouTube Hits for an Entertaining Fail.

      More power is tempting, I know... but first learn the car as it is. It's better than you think, maybe.
      "By Endurance We Conquer" - Family motto of Sir Ernest Shackleton

    13. Member Eistreiber's Avatar
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      03-27-2017 11:15 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by ydrogs View Post
      Also these guys http://s-pautomotive.com/?product=wi...rness-services provide plug and play wiring harnesses to quicken the swap which is what I have seen is the hardest part and where most swaps fail.
      That ^. Let's review, and note the bolded:

      Quote Originally Posted by ydrogs View Post
      Also these guys http://s-pautomotive.com/?product=wi...rness-services provide plug and play wiring harnesses to quicken the swap which is what I have seen is the hardest part and where most swaps fail.
      So... that looks like a good direction to go in, first check into what it'll take to turn a 1.8t from boat anchor enclosed in German sheet metal to running powerplant. That engine needs various electronic carpola to run; slap in a points- distributor and change the T-belt isn't gonna do it.

      Then all the other ripple effects need to be considered and addressed.

      But [ OP ] if you really want to do the 1.8t swap, the engine management is where to start. Figure that out first so you have at least an inkling of what you're getting yourself into.

      G/L.
      "By Endurance We Conquer" - Family motto of Sir Ernest Shackleton

    14. Member onurB's Avatar
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      03-28-2017 12:03 AM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Looking for some advice on whether I should clean up my original engine while out of the car or upgrade to a 1.8T while I am at it. This car when I got it 3 years ago already had a replacement 1.8 out of a 92 Jetta. Would love more power in the Scirocco as it seems they had more power in my memories of my first one back in the mid 80's than they really have.
      In your memories, how many cars had a 175ish Hp 4 cyl. back then? None.
      That's usual nowadays.

      Sciroccos could have been fast, in your 80's eyes.
      -Bruno -->Mine
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      Hääpifokkëstii!
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    15. 03-29-2017 07:36 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by Eistreiber View Post
      So... for designated V-tex curmudgeon(s), there's been me and Hal, a bunch of also-rans, and now you.
      Wow, now that's high praise!
      I'd already been branded an 'old guy' somewhere in my travels, but 'curmudgeon' well before the age of 50? That's quite an accomplishment.

      And with that... 4000 posts. Jeez, the time I've wasted...
      no one cares what you think in real life...
      how do you figure the internet makes it any better.

    16. Member
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      04-19-2017 11:24 AM #41
      Some time has passed since I last updated the tear down thread. Engine is now out, seats are at the upholsterer's and body has been stripped of all the "bits" with some paint stripping started. Just wrapped up last night removing the glass which thankfully came out without any breakage (but I must say decades of the Florida sun baking the weather seals around the windows had turned them almost to glue). I am amazed at the state of the body on this car, there is virtually no rust anywhere and all the bolts and screws came out with no resistance whatsoever.

      [IMG][/IMG]

      [IMG][/IMG]

      [IMG][/IMG]

      [IMG][/IMG]

      [IMG][/IMG]

      Now that the car is at the body shop I will be snapping photos as we head to paint. Still looking for a donor car for the 1.8T engine I plan to drop in the car. Thanks to Ted Orr for meeting me half way between my place in Ontario and NY to safely pass off the "new" dash for the car. This dash is brown but I have heard it isn't hard to paint them and thought I was lucky to find a near perfect brown dash as it has been 3 years of searching.

      Plans are to make what was a standard Scirocco into an "S" car which means blacking out all the chrome including the door handles. Has anyone got advice on how to approach painting these very shiny handles?

      Still searching for black rear door cards should anyone have spares. Also short one rear bumper retaining clip for the side quarter (found one of mine was broken), and a coat hook.

      [IMG][/IMG]

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      04-19-2017 01:37 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Plans are to make what was a standard Scirocco into an "S" car which means blacking out all the chrome including the door handles. Has anyone got advice on how to approach painting these very shiny handles?
      I would sell the chrome handles and buy new black handles. Some want the chrome and the paint is never going to stick anyway. Perhaps you could get them powder coated if you got the chrome removed. Maybe you could take them to a rechroming place and get them to strip off the chrome.

      You didn't say if you wanted to paint the inner door handles also, but here are new black ones:

      http://www.mk1autohaus.com/Inner-Doo...n-_p_8491.html

      For the outers, I think you need the VIN because the Scirocco II came out in 1981 also and the 1980 handles are chromed (from my parts search on http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/USA/SCI/)

      I found many black outer handles on eBay but I'm not sure if they are for your Scirocco. I even found new Hella handles.

      VigLink Shopping hijacked the URL, but check out eBay auction 282438264826.

      -Old Eric

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      04-19-2017 01:46 PM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN View Post
      VigLink Shopping hijacked the URL, but check out eBay auction 282438264826.

      -Old Eric
      I opted out of VigLink redirects. Here is the eBay auction for a new left Hella handle without cylinder (Check your part number to see if it's the same first):

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Left-V...dYucWA&vxp=mtr

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      04-19-2017 02:57 PM #44
      Thanks that realoem website is really cool. Did not know such a site existed and very helpful in seeing all the bits and if parts are available or not. I assume when you search for a particular part and it brings up all the other vehicles with this part number that these parts are interchangable with say an Audi part?

      The inner black door handles must be new on MK1autohaus as I have been on this site many times and never noticed these.

      I know I saw on a website somewhere that the black inner B pillar and top of door trim is available from someone but for the life of me can not find it now. Has anyone found it out there in the WWW?

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      04-19-2017 04:27 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Thanks that realoem website is really cool. Did not know such a site existed and very helpful in seeing all the bits and if parts are available or not. I assume when you search for a particular part and it brings up all the other vehicles with this part number that these parts are interchangable with say an Audi part?

      The inner black door handles must be new on MK1autohaus as I have been on this site many times and never noticed these.

      I know I saw on a website somewhere that the black inner B pillar and top of door trim is available from someone but for the life of me can not find it now. Has anyone found it out there in the WWW?
      There used to be another website called PartsBase dot org, but it went away. The realeom one is almost as good. I hope it doesn't go away also.

      You would have to find somebody with access to ETKA to verify part numbers (if ETKA goes back that far). If you do a part number search, leave out dashes and spaces between the numbers or you will get bogus results mixed in with the good results.

      You can also find new MK1 outer door handles at Mk1Autohaus if you look up Rabbit. I'm not sure if there is a difference. (That was before I looked up part numbers.)

      I saw the B pillar decals for the Scirocco II, but don't remember seeing them for the Scirocco Mk1. Maybe you can find the part number on the realoem website. Then enter the part number without dashes or spaces in your favorite search engine.

      Good luck.

      -Old Eric

    21. 04-20-2017 12:40 AM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Plans are to make what was a standard Scirocco into an "S" car...
      Wait a minute, I'm ... Wasn't this already an 'S' - a Cosmos 'S' to be exact? (we'd had a chat about that, or so I thought )

      By the way... that body is insanely and enviably clean and rust-free. Lucky!
      Condition is like my '82 (also a FL car)

      Still gonna be done for Cincy, right?

      Quote Originally Posted by 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN View Post
      You would have to find somebody with access to ETKA to verify part numbers (if ETKA goes back that far). If you do a part number search, leave out dashes and spaces between the numbers or you will get bogus results mixed in with the good results.
      I may or may not have old versions of ETKA.
      Just like, I may or may not have a pumpkin and microfiche from the 90s (pre-ETKA days), and dealer parts books... for when ETKA isn't "old enough".
      I can neither confirm nor deny.
      You know.. hypothetically speaking.

      Quote Originally Posted by 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN View Post
      You can also find new MK1 outer door handles at Mk1Autohaus if you look up Rabbit. I'm not sure if there is a difference. (That was before I looked up part numbers.)
      No, Rabbit handles are not the same / won't work.
      There's a current thread on door handles that gives some good background:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...t-door-handles
      no one cares what you think in real life...
      how do you figure the internet makes it any better.

    22. Member
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      04-20-2017 09:14 AM #47
      The car is (or was) Cosmos silver and will be again but was not an S model. Luckily I managed to find an 81 which although not S was built in one of the S colours for that year. I have added the passenger side mirror and have acquired the emblems for S in red as well as have the seats being redone with the correct red stripped fabric from Werk34 in Germany (should look sweet when done). The dash will also be painted to resemble the S trim insert and I found a couple of years ago on the Vortex a black instrument cluster with gauges which have white faces (as a bonus). Looking forward to it all coming together.

      Still holding out for it being ready for Cincy but of course the project has fallen behind a bit but fingers are crossed! Just searching for a local donor for the 1.8T engine.

    23. Member fredybender's Avatar
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      04-20-2017 09:49 AM #48
      If you need 1.8T mounts ,and 02A /02J transmission mounts, hit me up
      Early W/C NLA and performance parts: www.tech-53.com

    24. Member
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      04-20-2017 10:08 AM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by fredybender View Post
      If you need 1.8T mounts ,and 02A /02J transmission mounts, hit me up
      That is exactly my plan Fred. Just want to make sure that I can find a 1.8T before I place the order. Will also be ordering up a new headliner. How hard is it for the average Joe to install the headliner? Is this really a job for an auto upholsterer?

    25. Member fredybender's Avatar
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      04-20-2017 12:15 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      That is exactly my plan Fred. Just want to make sure that I can find a 1.8T before I place the order. Will also be ordering up a new headliner. How hard is it for the average Joe to install the headliner? Is this really a job for an auto upholsterer?
      S1 is easy peasy! as long as you have the glass out. start in the center, and go back spray 3M adhesive, lots of gloves, and patience, that all... This is for a Cougar, but its the same principle
      Early W/C NLA and performance parts: www.tech-53.com

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