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    1. 04-20-2017 02:38 AM #1
      I have a 04 gti and that I have just done quite a bit of work to. Replaced both axles with raxles, LCA with r32 bushings, balljoints, tierods, wheel bearings and hubs all around, replaced coilovers with ultimos, strut mount bearings and bushings, and just finished the 312mm upgrade in the front along with ss lines. Today I finished both rear bearings and hubs and started to do the 256mm upgrade to the rear. I have 20th calipers all around when I went to install the calipers in the rear the carriers were not able to sit flush to the mounting point on rear beam and carrier is tight against the rotor without having pads in. I understand the rotors are bigger so it pushes caliper away from mounting point but if they are 20th calipers shouldn't they just bolt right fast?

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    2. 04-20-2017 02:42 AM #2
      I've been online searching for a spot where I went wrong or possibly missing something to caliper and I haven't come across any info of anyone having same issue.

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    3. Member iliaonabike's Avatar
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      static 4, bagged 3
      04-21-2017 12:52 AM #3
      Did you get the 20th/gli/337 rear caliper carrying brackets as well?

    4. 04-21-2017 01:33 AM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by iliaonabike View Post
      Did you get the 20th/gli/337 rear caliper carrying brackets as well?
      Yup. Still had the pads in em.

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    5. Member iliaonabike's Avatar
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      04-21-2017 01:51 AM #5
      Oh I get what you are saying now. That's weird. Everything should bolt right up. Only thing I can think of, is you don't have the rotors with the right offset but we're talking like you need at least a 1/2" of extra space to get the inner pad in between the carrier/caliper and rotor correct?

      Take a picture if you can
      Last edited by iliaonabike; 04-21-2017 at 01:54 AM.

    6. Member dubluv2003's Avatar
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      04-21-2017 01:17 PM #6
      If Im understanding what you are saying correctly, I had the same issue when I swapped to rear GLI brakes. I had to stack 2 hardened steel washers behind the carriers to get everything to sit properly.
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    7. 04-23-2017 11:31 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by iliaonabike View Post
      Oh I get what you are saying now. That's weird. Everything should bolt right up. Only thing I can think of, is you don't have the rotors with the right offset but we're talking like you need at least a 1/2" of extra space to get the inner pad in between the carrier/caliper and rotor correct?

      Take a picture if you can
      Yeah it's like the rotor would be either to thick or the carrier would be off some how. I ordered the rotors from ecs I believe they are 256mmx22mm if I'm not mistaken and the calipers came directly off a 20th. Everything I've read and from what I have gathered from other members and diy is that the 20th should be direct bolt on. The carriers is pressed right up against the rotor so something is f**ky somewhere.


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    8. 04-23-2017 11:35 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by dubluv2003 View Post
      If Im understanding what you are saying correctly, I had the same issue when I swapped to rear GLI brakes. I had to stack 2 hardened steel washers behind the carriers to get everything to sit properly.
      Really? Did you ever read about anyone else having the same issue? I've just recently put a lot of work into this and these calipers and my rear ss lines are the last piece to get it sitting on the ground to figure out spacers and bleed my lines. Have you Come across any issues with adding the washers?

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    9. Member cmdshft's Avatar
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      04-24-2017 01:07 AM #9
      Just curious, are you cambered in the rear?

    10. 04-24-2017 01:11 AM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by cmdshft View Post
      Just curious, are you cambered in the rear?
      No sir. I just installed ultimos and a big part of the front suspension so it hasn't hit the floor yet for me to adjust anything. It did have some junk suspension from po.

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    11. Member dubluv2003's Avatar
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      04-24-2017 09:23 AM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by Gee_T_eye04 View Post
      Really? Did you ever read about anyone else having the same issue? I've just recently put a lot of work into this and these calipers and my rear ss lines are the last piece to get it sitting on the ground to figure out spacers and bleed my lines. Have you Come across any issues with adding the washers?

      Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
      Never really looked into it on here, it was just the solution I came up with. daily driven after that, plus many spirited drives for years. Still no issues. I did use loc-tite and torqued to spec.
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    12. Member arnoldcp's Avatar
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      04-24-2017 09:36 AM #12
      So, if you are 100% sure they came off of a 20th then this explanation is incorrect. I have an 8N TT Quattro that when I upgraded my rear calipers and carriers had the same issue. The FWD and AWD have a SLIGHTLY different offset to them and I got the carriers from a 20th, which is not AWD and they would not fit. Did some looking and found the carriers off of an R32, bolted right up. I compared the two side by side and you could tell there is just a little more offset on the AWD carriers. That MIGHT be your issue.

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      04-24-2017 09:58 AM #13
      I posted in your other thread, but this one is more topical so I'll continue here.
      The brakes are correct, there are no red AWD calipers. They should bolt right up with no washers etc.
      All I can think of is the hub not being fully seated on the stub axle. Did you fully clean and lubricate the shafts before installing the new hubs? Pop the cap and crank the nut as hard as you can and hopefully it will move the last 1/4". Then back it off and torque back to spec (130 or 150 ft-lbs I think).
      Last edited by GolfCL Smooth; 04-24-2017 at 11:35 AM. Reason: typo

    14. Member arnoldcp's Avatar
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      04-24-2017 11:26 AM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by GolfCL Smooth View Post
      The brakes are correct, there are no red AWD calipers.
      I assume someone could have painted or powder coated them fairly easily. Mine are bright orange.

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      04-24-2017 11:39 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by arnoldcp View Post
      I assume someone could have painted or powder coated them fairly easily. Mine are bright orange.

      Sent from mTalk
      True, but in this case the red is the exact OEM shade of red and it looks to be original based on the chips and rust etc. The OP said the rear setup was pulled from a 20th.

      You could also take a 3-jaw puller and separate the hub from the inner race, which should remain pressed onto the stub axle. This will let you visually confirm that it's fully seated.

    16. Member dubluv2003's Avatar
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      04-24-2017 12:12 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by GolfCL Smooth View Post
      True, but in this case the red is the exact OEM shade of red and it looks to be original based on the chips and rust etc. The OP said the rear setup was pulled from a 20th.

      You could also take a 3-jaw puller and separate the hub from the inner race, which should remain pressed onto the stub axle. This will let you visually confirm that it's fully seated.
      My hubs were pressed in perfectly when I did mine. When I ran into this issue, I put my original brakes back on to see if I ran into the same problem and I did not.
      Instagram: @NINEFOOTERS

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      04-24-2017 02:14 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by dubluv2003 View Post
      My hubs were pressed in perfectly when I did mine. When I ran into this issue, I put my original brakes back on to see if I ran into the same problem and I did not.
      Very strange.

      I've done this install on two MK4's, both times no issues...??

    18. 04-24-2017 03:45 PM #18
      Alright I appreciate all the replys. That was my next move to check the hub and bearing again and just make sure everything is seated and nothing is getting hung up or in the way. I did look at the abs sensor to see how far it was sitting out on ring and it seems to be at the same point on the abs ring on new as it did on the old one. Am I taking a chance on damaging the bearing if I crank on the axle nut and it is seated properly? Unless the guy who owned the 20th had changed the calipers at some point in time before I bought em they should be 20th.

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    19. 04-24-2017 03:48 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by GolfCL Smooth View Post
      Very strange.

      I've done this install on two MK4's, both times no issues...??
      That's what had me thinking that I installed something incorrectly or had bought the calipers missing a piece. Every diy and other build threads I have read with the 20th brakes they all installed without any issues or adapters/brackets.

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    20. 04-28-2017 09:03 PM #20
      Check hub and bearing to make sure it was seated properly and everything is good but still having same issue with the brakes so I'm guessing washers and loc tight are my only options

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    21. 05-01-2017 09:52 PM #21
      OK vortex finally got my calipers straightened out now I'm going to be doing brake fluid and bleeding. The gti has been up on Jack stands for a minute and I'm almost positive the reservoir is dry. I know once it's dry you are supposed to bleed abs through vagcom and bleed MC and then lines. My question is in which order should I do the bleeding? I've come across a few other threads with same question but nothing really clear cut and the one thread that was helpful I forgot to pin so I can use as reference. Any input is much appreciated. A lot of time and work and this is the last bit other then spacers for the wheels to start driving again.

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      05-01-2017 10:51 PM #22
      If you ever figure out the issue with the calipers, please post details! That one still has me scratching my head...

      Regarding brake fluid, If your lines have been disconnected and reservoir left open for an extended period of time, chances are the ABS module has run dry. Do you have VCDS? It's a fairly simple procedure. What about a pressure bleeder? You shouldn't need to bleed the MC.

    23. 05-01-2017 10:59 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by GolfCL Smooth View Post
      If you ever figure out the issue with the calipers, please post details! That one still has me scratching my head...

      Regarding brake fluid, If your lines have been disconnected and reservoir left open for an extended period of time, chances are the ABS module has run dry. Do you have VCDS? It's a fairly simple procedure. What about a pressure bleeder? You shouldn't need to bleed the MC.
      I ended up putting solid spacers and bought longer bolts and everything spaced out fine. I'm unsure as to why they didn't just bolt up. I made sure hubs and bearings seated properly my old rotors and calipers bolted right back up. There was a gap between the carrier and mounting point.

      It has been on jack stands for some time and brake lines disconnected because of replacing old with ss lines and reservoir cap off. I do have vcds on hand.

      There wouldn't be a difference in where the car was made that would cause the brake carriers not to bolt right up would there?

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      05-02-2017 10:36 AM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by Gee_T_eye04 View Post
      I ended up putting solid spacers and bought longer bolts and everything spaced out fine. I'm unsure as to why they didn't just bolt up. I made sure hubs and bearings seated properly my old rotors and calipers bolted right back up. There was a gap between the carrier and mounting point.

      It has been on jack stands for some time and brake lines disconnected because of replacing old with ss lines and reservoir cap off. I do have vcds on hand.

      There wouldn't be a difference in where the car was made that would cause the brake carriers not to bolt right up would there?

      Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
      The rear beam dimensions should be the same across all FWD models. No variance in stub axles or hubs either. Just last weekend I installed another set of GLI calipers on a friend's car. I've done them on a Golf, Jetta and Jetta Wagon. Stumped!

      I would start by pressure bleeding the system to get clean fluid to all four corners. Then run the VCDS ABS purge for 2-3 cycles. Then do a quick pressure bleed again to visually confirm you're free of air. A few things to note: confirm the bleeding order before you start, depends on your ABS module. The VCDS procedure has no defined end, it will keep repeating over and over again. Once your lines are flushed with the initial bleed, you can recycle clean fluid during the purge cycle. A clean catch vessel would be useful here. Best to have 2-3 litres of fluid on hand, fill up your pressure bleeder generously and you won't have to worry about the reservoir running dry. I find that it takes 15 psi to get the rear lines bled. Most bleeders say not to exceed 10 psi but that hasn't worked well for me in the past. Lastly, you may still notice a soft pedal on the first drive. A few test drives and then a final ABS purge may be necessary.

      Good luck

    25. 05-02-2017 01:06 PM #25
      by the look of the paint on the slide pin and the slide pin bushing id say someone did paint them so there probably not off a 20th. that maybe the source of your problem

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